Why an oil can suit acne prone skin

Squalane is a moisturizing oil that helps keep water from escaping the skin. It can suit oily or acne prone skin, including skin that still feels dry after moisturizer. Squalane and squalene are different: squalene occurs naturally in skin oil, while squalane is its more stable form used in skincare. The main reason to use squalane is hydration, not removing existing pore plugs.1

How to choose a product

Look for "noncomedogenic" or "won't clog pores" on the finished product, even if the packaging would rather discuss its glow credentials. These descriptions identify products intended to be unlikely to cause acne. The same approach applies to your cleanser, moisturizer and makeup, not just your facial oil. Clogged pores can expand and become more noticeable, so choosing products that do not encourage clogging matters more than adding another product to address their appearance.23

An ingredient rating is not a verdict on a finished cream, however convenient a spreadsheet would make the shopping. Many historical pore clogging ratings came from testing individual ingredients at full concentration on rabbit ears. A mixture applied to human skin behaves differently. Concentration, the combination of ingredients and the finished formula all matter. An oil appearing on an ingredient list therefore does not automatically make the entire product pore clogging. Conversely, choosing one noncomedogenic ingredient does not settle how the rest of the formula behaves. Treat ratings as background information, not a reason to reject or approve a whole product.4

How to fit squalane into your routine

  1. 1Wash gently with a noncomedogenic cleanser and warm water. Avoid scrubbing.
  2. 2If you use a moisturizer, apply it after washing while some water remains on your skin.
  3. 3Apply lighter products, such as a serum or toner, before squalane oil. Squalane sits on the surface and helps seal in moisture.
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Use moisturizer daily when your skin feels dry. Benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, adapalene, tazarotene, tretinoin and prescription isotretinoin can dry and irritate skin; daily moisturizing can help you tolerate them. Avoiding moisturizer simply because your skin is oily can leave dryness unaddressed. Dry skin can produce more oil, which can contribute to clogged pores. An acne friendly moisturizer supports an acne treatment routine rather than replacing the treatment.2

What if your skin is sensitive?

Pay attention to the other ingredients in a squalane product. Fragrances, preservatives and dyes can trigger reactions in sensitive skin or allergic contact dermatitis, an allergic skin reaction. A noncomedogenic product can still contain ingredients that trigger sensitivity: pore clogging and an allergic reaction are different problems.1

What if you already have clogged pores?

Blackheads and whiteheads are comedones: pores plugged with skin oil and dead skin cells. They need care aimed at the blockage, not just extra moisture. Salicylic acid can help unclog pores, and retinoids are another treatment option. Do not pick or squeeze the plugs; doing so can cause scars, infection and further damage. With consistent care and treatment, comedonal acne can start improving in eight to 12 weeks, while clearing can take months. That is an acne treatment timeline, not a waiting period for squalane to work. See a dermatologist if your treatment is not giving you the results you want.35

Where this answer comes from

  1. 1Squalane: What It Is and Benefitshealth.clevelandclinic.org
  2. 2Moisturizer: Why you may need it if you have acneaad.org
  3. 3What can treat large facial pores?aad.org
  4. 4Safety assessment on comedogenicity of dermatological products containing d-alpha tocopheryl acetate in Asian subjects: A double-blind randomized controlled tripmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5Comedonal Acne: Causes & Treatmentmy.clevelandclinic.org