How should you layer retinol and moisturizer?
- 1Wash your face with a gentle cleanser.
- 2Apply retinol in the evening, using the amount and frequency specified in your product's directions.
- 3Apply moisturizer afterwards.
These are general layering steps, not a reason to override your product's directions. Applying more retinol or using it more often than directed can leave skin raw and irritated. Moisturizer belongs alongside the treatment, rather than replacing the instructions.2
Can a moisturizer buffer retinol without stopping it from working?
Yes. A thin layer of moisturizer before retinol provides a small barrier while allowing retinol to do its job. This is an option if retinol is irritating, particularly when you are new to using it or have sensitive skin. You do not need to insist on retinol first if that order makes the routine uncomfortable.1
What does sandwiching retinol between moisturizer layers mean?
Sandwiching means applying moisturizer, then retinol, then moisturizer again, because skincare has apparently acquired catering terminology. It combines buffering before retinol with moisturizing afterwards. A thin first layer is enough for the buffering approach; there is no need to turn that first step into a thick coating.1
What is the moisturizer doing?
Your skin barrier includes the outermost skin layer, which helps regulate water balance and the movement of substances into and out of skin. Keeping that layer hydrated supports healthy skin structure and function. Moisturizer therefore has a separate job from retinol: helping maintain hydration rather than supplying more of the same treatment.3
Moisturizers can combine ingredients that draw water into the outer skin layer with ingredients that limit water escaping. Glycerine is an example of the first type; petrolatum and dimethicone are examples of the second. Petrolatum can feel greasy, so texture is a practical consideration when choosing a moisturizer you want to use.4
If you use a separate retinol serum, you probably do not need a moisturizer containing retinol too. You can keep the evening routine to cleanser, retinol and moisturizer, even if the beauty aisle has other administrative ambitions.1
What should you expect?
Regular use of an over the counter retinol product can start to show improvements in about three months. If your skin becomes too dry or irritated, stop using the product for a few days rather than adding more layers and continuing unchanged. Use sunscreen every day, with SPF 30 or higher.12
Where this answer comes from
- 1Anti-Aging Skin Care: Ingredients and Routinehealth.clevelandclinic.org
- 2Keratosis pilaris: Self-careaad.org
- 3Skin 101: Understanding the Fundamentals of Skin Barrier Physiology—Why is This Important for Clinicians?pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- 4Noninvasive Facial Rejuvenation. Part 1: Patient-Directedpmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov