Does retinol work?

What can retinol actually improve?

Retinol is a reasonable option for mild fine lines, uneven pigmentation and rough texture. Cosmetic retinoids can partly improve changes caused by repeated sun exposure, including wrinkles and uneven pigment. Retinol can improve signs of sun ageing, which gives it more to offer than an ambitious jar name. Think improvement, not complete reversal of skin ageing.13

How does retinol work?

Retinol belongs to the retinoid family of vitamin A ingredients. Retinoids act inside skin cells by binding to receptors that control gene activity. Retinol increases skin cell production and turnover, helping prevent dead cells from clogging pores. It also increases collagen production. Collagen is part of skin's supporting structure, and increasing it can soften the appearance of fine lines.1234

How long does retinol take to work?

• Early changes: improvement in skin's look and feel takes several weeks.
• Fine lines: a noticeable difference usually takes several months of topical retinol use.
• Dark spots: lightening can take months, and retinol can irritate skin.
• Acne: breakouts can continue or look worse during the first couple of months. Medicinal topical retinoids can take 12 weeks or longer to show improvement.

How should you start using retinol?

1. 1Choose the lowest strength you can find. Retinol percentages are not always disclosed on packaging.
2. 2Test a small amount on a small patch of skin. Wait a couple of days; do not proceed if the area becomes very red or itchy.
3. 3At bedtime, wash with a gentle cleanser and pat dry. Do not scrub.
4. 4Follow the package directions. General guidance is a thin, pea sized amount over the face, avoiding the eyes, mouth and nose.
5. 5Start every other night and increase gradually as tolerated. Finish with a moisturizer that does not clog pores.
6. 6During the day, use sunscreen, seek shade and wear protective clothing. Choose broad spectrum, water resistant sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher.

Is retinol the right choice for acne?

Retinol can help clogged pores, but retinol cosmetics and acne medicines are not interchangeable. Adapalene is an acne retinoid available without a prescription; tretinoin and other prescription retinoids are additional options. Acne retinoids treat blackheads, whiteheads and some pimples, and can be used to maintain clearer skin. Choose a treatment for the concern you have, rather than entering a contest to own the most intimidating tube.15

Who should be careful or get medical help?

Do not use retinoids during pregnancy. Skin allergies, marked dryness, or persistent redness and inflammation are reasons to discuss alternatives before starting. Retinoids can worsen eczema. In darker skin, irritation can trigger dark marks, so start slowly and use moisturizer. Dryness, redness, peeling, itching and burning are possible side effects; irritation is not a result to aim for.124

If a prescribed retinoid irritates your skin, tell your dermatologist. They can adjust the amount, frequency or moisturizer order; make those prescription changes with their help.5

See a doctor if acne is not improving with treatment, is deep or painful, causes scars, or affects your mental health. Raised or sunken acne scars need more than an expectation that cosmetic retinol will fix them.26