Does using an acid cleanser count as an exfoliation day?

What makes a cleanser an exfoliant?

Exfoliation removes dead cells from the outer layer of skin. Chemical exfoliation uses alpha or beta hydroxy acids to dissolve those cells, rather than scrubbing them away. Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid; salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid. Cleansers containing these ingredients can gently resurface skin and help it look brighter. An exfoliating cleanser combines washing and exfoliation, even if the bottle gives only one of those jobs top billing.13

How should you count it in your schedule?

For routine planning, treat the acid cleanser as your exfoliating step rather than adding a separate exfoliant automatically. Cleansing and exfoliating do not need separate appointments in the bathroom. Use an exfoliating cleanser as the first step, not as an extra wash after another cleanser.2

Counting the day does not mean every exfoliating product has the same strength. How often to exfoliate depends on your skin type and the method; more aggressive exfoliation generally needs fewer sessions. A couple of times a week is general guidance for glycolic acid exfoliation, not a fixed schedule for every acid cleanser. Your ordinary washing schedule and your exfoliation schedule are separate decisions: washing morning and evening does not require using an acid cleanser both times.24

How do you use an acid cleanser?

1. 1Wet your face with lukewarm water. Hot water can strip the skin's protective barrier and increase dryness.
2. 2Gently massage the cleanser with your fingertips. A washcloth, loofah or scrubbing brush adds friction and can be harsh.
3. 3For medicated cleansers, general face washing guidance is to allow one to two minutes for the active ingredients to work before rinsing.
4. 4Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water until cleanser residue is gone, then pat dry with a clean towel rather than rubbing.
5. 5Apply moisturizer after washing. In the morning, finish with sunscreen after moisturizer.

When should you be more careful?

Acid cleansers can irritate sensitive skin. A gentle cleanser is a better starting point for most people, and fragrance free cleansers are generally gentler. If you already use prescription retinoids, retinol or benzoyl peroxide, additional exfoliation can worsen dryness or contribute to breakouts. Acne cleansers combined with acne treatments that stay on the skin also need caution because too much treatment can cause excessive dryness and irritation.135

Avoid strong exfoliation if you have a darker skin tone or develop dark spots after acne, burns or bug bites: aggressive exfoliation can increase pigmentation. Do not exfoliate sunburned skin or areas with open cuts or wounds. Exfoliation is optional, not something every skin type needs.34

What should make you stop?

Stop using the product if you develop skin irritation, and make an appointment with a dermatologist. Redness, dryness and chafing can occur with irritating cleansers or excessive washing. Tightness after cleansing is a reason to moisturize, not a reason to add another exfoliant. A dermatologist can help decide whether exfoliation belongs in your routine if you are unsure.1235