What are you treating?

Melasma causes flat brown or blue gray patches, commonly on the cheeks, forehead, nose and upper lip. The patches often appear on both sides of the face. Melasma itself is harmless and usually does not hurt or itch, but other conditions can resemble it. Have a clinician check facial darkening that does not go away rather than assuming every dark patch is melasma.34

Melanin is the pigment that gives skin its color. Sun exposure stimulates the body to produce more of it, and melasma involves excess pigment production. Having naturally darker skin does not replace sunscreen: melanin offers some protection from ultraviolet light, but not enough to prevent sun damage.5

How to care for melasma at home

Sun protection is part of melasma treatment, not the boring paperwork before the real treatment.1

  1. 1Choose gentle, fragrance free skincare. Stop using a product that burns or stings, because irritation can darken existing spots.
  2. 2Apply sunscreen to skin not covered by clothing 15 minutes before going outdoors. Choose broad spectrum protection, which covers UVA and UVB rays, water resistance and SPF 30 or higher.
  3. 3Choose a tinted sunscreen containing iron oxide for protection against visible light as well as ultraviolet light. Visible light can worsen melasma, especially in darker skin tones.
  4. 4Add a wide brimmed hat, sunglasses with UV protection and shade when outdoors. A hat with a UPF rating on its label offers a specified level of ultraviolet protection.
  5. 5Reapply sunscreen at least every two hours outdoors and after swimming or sweating. Protect your skin on cloudy days too.
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Keep sun protection going throughout the year, including winter. Try to avoid midday sun, when ultraviolet light is most intense. Water, sand and concrete reflect sunlight, so being near them increases exposure. Tanning beds and sunlamps are not alternatives to outdoor sun; they can worsen melasma and interfere with treatment.13

SPF 30 is the minimum in general melasma self care advice; more protective routines use SPF 50 or higher with iron oxides. Sunscreen strength and visible light protection are separate considerations, so check both the SPF and the ingredients rather than choosing by tint alone.6

Can food or homemade remedies clear melasma?

No food or drink is known to directly cure melasma. Dietary changes are not a substitute for sun protection or treatment. For anything applied to the face, irritation is the practical concern: a homemade mixture that burns or stings is a reason to stop, not a sign that pigment is being removed.14

Azelaic acid, kojic acid and vitamin C are among the ingredients used in melasma treatment. Other topical options include cysteamine, thiamidol and tranexamic acid. These are treatment ingredients, not instructions for making a kitchen mask. There is no single best treatment for everyone; the choice depends partly on pigment depth, skin tone and triggers. Ask about a suitable formulated treatment rather than combining several pigment products yourself.26

Which treatments can you use at home?

Treatment at home can include medication prescribed by a dermatologist. Hydroquinone evens out skin tone. Another option is a combination cream containing hydroquinone, tretinoin and a corticosteroid. Tretinoin is a retinoid, while the corticosteroid reduces inflammation. A dermatologist can also choose gentler options such as azelaic acid. Use the prescribed directions for frequency and application rather than treating these creams as interchangeable cosmetics.2

When combining prescribed melasma medication with sunscreen and camouflage makeup, apply the medication first, sunscreen second and makeup last. Camouflage makeup is optional; a treatment plan does not require your face to become a public progress report.12

How long does melasma take to fade?

A melasma treatment plan usually takes 3 to 12 months to produce results, sometimes longer when the patches have been present for years. Some melasma fades after a trigger ends, but other cases last for years or a lifetime. Sun exposure can bring the pigment back after improvement, so continue sun protection after the patches lighten.26

Pigment depth also affects the response. Epidermal melasma, with pigment in the outer skin layer, generally responds better to treatment. Dermal melasma, with pigment deeper in the skin, responds poorly. Mixed melasma has pigment at both depths and often improves only partly. A dermatologist can assess depth using examination tools such as a Wood's lamp or dermatoscope; patch color alone is not a reliable basis for choosing treatment.26

What if you are pregnant or taking hormones?

Pregnancy, birth control pills and hormone replacement therapy are associated with melasma. Pregnancy related patches often fade over several months after pregnancy ends, although they can return during another pregnancy. Use sun protection as your home care foundation and discuss pigment treatments with your clinician during pregnancy. If you suspect hormonal medication is contributing, discuss options with the prescriber rather than stopping it yourself.3

Some medicines cause pigmentation that resembles melasma. For example, phenytoin and carbamazepine can cause roughly symmetrical facial darkening, while minocycline and amiodarone can cause bluish or gray pigmentation. Tell your clinician which medicines you take and when the patches appeared. Medication related pigmentation needs its own assessment; changing skincare alone does not address a medicine that is causing the color change.7

When should you see a dermatologist?

Book an assessment if facial darkening persists, the diagnosis is uncertain or the appearance bothers you enough to want treatment. Pain or itching is not typical of melasma and deserves assessment rather than more lightening products. A clinician can distinguish melasma from pigmentation following inflammation, medication related changes and other skin conditions.34

Chemical peels, lasers and microneedling belong with an experienced dermatologist, not in a home remedy routine. Procedures can worsen melasma or cause additional pigmentation after inflammation. Some also carry a high risk of relapse or harder to treat pigmentation. More aggressive treatment is not automatically better, especially when the pigment lies deeper in the skin.6

Where this answer comes from

  1. 1Melasma: Self-careaad.org
  2. 2Melasma: Diagnosis and treatmentaad.org
  3. 3Melasma: MedlinePlus Medical Encyclopediamedlineplus.gov
  4. 4Melasma: Treatment, Causes & Preventionmy.clevelandclinic.org
  5. 5Melanin: What Is It, Types & Benefitsmy.clevelandclinic.org
  6. 6Melasma (facial pigmentation)dermnetnz.org
  7. 7Drug-induced Skin Pigmentationdermnetnz.org