Why is your face flaking?
Flaking involves shedding the epidermis, the outer layer of skin. Peeling can happen as skin recovers from damage, including sunburn, friction or irritation. Other causes include allergic reactions, eczema, psoriasis and seborrheic dermatitis. Acne treatments, retinol creams, chemical peels and certain medicines can also cause peeling. The useful distinction is between ordinary dryness that responds to gentle care and peeling that needs treatment for its underlying cause.2
How to care for dry facial flakes
- 1Wash gently with warm water and a gentle cleanser. Use enough to remove dirt and oil, without building a thick lather. Keep showers to five to ten minutes.
- 2Pat your face gently with a clean towel rather than rubbing. Apply moisturizer immediately while the skin is still damp.
- 3Smooth an emollient gently over your skin in the direction of hair growth rather than rubbing it in. An emollient is a moisturizing treatment that forms a protective film to trap moisture.
- 4Reapply moisturizer during the day whenever your skin feels dry or tight. Emollients can be used at least three or four times daily, including after washing.
- 5Protect your face outdoors with broad spectrum, water resistant sunscreen rated SPF 30 or higher, along with shade and protective clothing.
Which moisturizer should you choose?
| Texture | Useful difference | When it fits |
|---|---|---|
| Lotion | Thin and easy to spread, but less moisturizing. | When easy spreading matters more than richness. |
| Cream | Absorbs quickly and is less greasy than ointment. | Daytime use. |
| Ointment | Thick, greasy and very moisturizing. | Very dry skin or nighttime use; not weeping eczema. |
For dry skin, creams and ointments are more effective than lotions. Look for ingredients such as glycerin, hyaluronic acid, dimethicone, mineral oil, petrolatum or shea butter. Choose fragrance free products: an unscented product can still contain chemicals that mask odors and irritate dry, sensitive skin. A cream can suit daytime use better than a greasy ointment, so texture is a practical choice rather than a loyalty test.1
If ordinary soap dries your skin, an emollient soap substitute is another washing option. Mix a small amount with warm water, spread it over skin, rinse and pat dry. Emollient washes clean without normal soap foam, which is allowed to retire from its role as proof of cleanliness.3
Can petroleum jelly help?
Petroleum jelly can relieve dry skin, including dry lips and eyelids. Apply it while the skin is damp. For flaky eyelids, use a small amount for moisture and protection; eyelid skin is particularly thin and easily irritated. Ointments are more effective and less irritating than lotions for dry skin.4
Avoid putting petroleum jelly on your face if you are prone to acne, because it can cause breakouts in some people. A product that helps a dry eyelid is not automatically the right choice for every area of the face. Dry skin can also itch, crack or bleed, so flaking is not the only symptom worth paying attention to.4
Should you scrub or exfoliate the flakes?
Do not pick at or pull off peeling skin. Let it shed naturally: pulling it away can create openings for bacteria and increase infection risk. Removing visible flakes does not address every cause of peeling. If the peeling follows a sunburn, aloe vera can help soothe the burn, alongside gentle moisturizing and protection from further sun damage.2
Persistent scaling sometimes needs a different approach. Ichthyosis vulgaris is a condition, commonly inherited, that causes excessively dry, scaly skin and can affect the central face as well as other areas. It usually begins in childhood. A defect in filaggrin, a protein that helps the skin retain moisture, contributes to dryness and excess scale. Treatment involves daily moisturizing, with scale reducing ingredients such as urea, lactic acid, glycolic acid or salicylic acid in some cases. These ingredients can irritate active eczema. A longstanding pattern of scaling deserves assessment rather than choosing an exfoliant solely because flakes are visible.5
What should you pause or change?
For dry skin, stop cosmetic products containing alcohol, fragrance or retinoids. Ask a dermatologist before adding an itch relief cream, because some ingredients can worsen dryness and itching. A humidifier can help if indoor air is dry; clean it regularly to prevent mold.1
If you use a steroid cream or another skin treatment, leave 20 to 30 minutes between that treatment and your emollient. Ask your doctor which goes first. This prevents diluting the treatment or spreading it onto skin that does not need it. Report persistent stinging, burning, inflamed hair follicles or worsening facial acne to a doctor or pharmacist.3
What improvement should you expect?
Moisturizers help improve dry, flaky skin, including dryness associated with ageing. Older skin can become naturally drier and thinner, while sun damaged skin can become rough. Some ingredients, including alpha hydroxy acids and retinoid creams, reduce dryness with regular long term use in ageing skin. That is a different aim from calming a currently dry, irritated face; do not treat every flake as a reason to add another active ingredient.16
Recovery depends on what is causing the peeling: moisturizing alone cannot treat an allergy, infection or every skin condition. Arrange a medical assessment for unexplained peeling or dryness that persists despite gentle care. Tell the clinician about your medicines, vitamins and supplements. Contact a healthcare professional if peeling comes with fever or chills, which can signal infection. A growing lump or a sore that does not heal also needs assessment.126
Use a clean spoon or spatula to take emollient from a tub to reduce contamination. Keep emollients and fabrics carrying their residue away from flames and cigarettes. Washing clothing or bedding does not completely remove the residue.3
Where this answer comes from
- 1Dermatologists' top tips for relieving dry skinaad.org
- 2Peeling Skin: Causes, Diagnosis & Treatmentmy.clevelandclinic.org
- 3Emollientsnhs.uk
- 45 ways to use petroleum jelly for skin careaad.org
- 5Ichthyosis vulgarisdermnetnz.org
- 6Skin ageingdermnetnz.org