Retinol face wash: what to use and how

Is retinol face wash the same as retinol treatment?

Do not assume a cleanser containing retinol gives the same results as a treatment left on your skin. The routine and result timelines below concern retinol creams, lotions and serums. Cleansing and applying retinol are separate steps, even if the skincare aisle would prefer to sell them as one accomplishment.2

Retinol is a form of vitamin A and belongs to the wider family called retinoids. Retinol helps prevent clogged pores, increases skin cell turnover and supports collagen production. Collagen is a protein that helps give skin structure. Retinol is used for acne, uneven pigmentation, rough texture and fine lines; cleansing removes accumulated dirt and grime.1234

Which face wash should you use with retinol?

Choose a gentle cleanser without alcohol or abrasive particles. A cleanser labeled for sensitive skin is a useful starting point, and avoid heavily fragranced products. Retinol can dry and irritate skin, so a scrub is an unnecessary addition.245

How often should you wash?

Most people can cleanse in the morning and evening, with another wash after heavy sweating. If your skin is dry or sensitive, rinse with water in the morning and use cleanser at night. If combination skin feels dry or irritated after washing, switch to a gentler cleanser or use a thicker moisturizer. These are general cleansing schedules, not instructions to use a retinol containing wash that often.56

There is no universal face washing time that suits every cleanser. Follow the product's directions rather than extending contact time to try to get extra retinol benefits. Washing more often removes more natural oils and can make skin drier.6

How to wash your face and apply retinol

Before starting a separate retinol treatment, test a small amount on a small area of skin. Wait a couple of days and check for redness or itching before adding it to your nighttime routine. Introduce new products gradually rather than changing several things at once.12

1. 1Wet your face with lukewarm water. Apply your gentle cleanser with your fingertips, without scrubbing or using a brush.
2. 2Rinse with lukewarm water and pat dry with a soft towel.
3. 3Apply your separate retinol treatment according to its package or your clinician's directions. General guidance is a thin layer, about a pea sized amount for the face, avoiding the eyes, mouth and nose.
4. 4Finish with a facial moisturizer labeled noncomedogenic, meaning formulated not to clog pores.

Start the separate retinol treatment every third night and increase gradually as your skin tolerates it. Nightly use is something to build toward, not a starting requirement. These application amounts and schedules are for treatment left on skin, not for a face wash.4

What strength should you choose?

Begin with the least intense retinoid formula you can find. Retinol percentages are not required on every over the counter label, so an undisclosed percentage is not a reason to assume a product is mild. The label can leave the percentage out, which is an odd approach to helping anyone choose a percentage.3

Retinol and prescription retinoids are not interchangeable names. Tretinoin is a prescription retinoid, while adapalene is available in both prescription and over the counter formulations. If you already use a prescribed retinoid, follow that treatment's directions rather than adopting a cosmetic retinol schedule.3

How long does retinol take to work?

Visible improvement from retinol treatment takes several weeks. Fine lines generally take several months, and dark spots can also take months to lighten. Acne can look worse initially, and pimples can continue during the first couple of months. Burning, significant peeling or irritation should not be treated as proof that the product is working.14

What else belongs in the routine?

Use moisturizer morning and evening to help retain moisture. In the morning, apply sunscreen after moisturizer. Choose broad spectrum protection with SPF 30 or higher, and use shade and protective clothing too. Retinoids increase sensitivity to sunlight, so sun protection belongs alongside treatment.234

Avoid scrubbing while using retinol, and do not pile on new exfoliants or drying products. More products increase the chance of side effects. If you wear makeup, remove it at the end of the day; a makeup remover followed by a gentle cleanser is an option. Without makeup, a second cleanse adds drying without a clear need.126

Who should be careful with retinol?

Retinoids are an option for mild acne, mild pigmentation changes and fine lines. People with skin allergies, persistent dryness or substantial redness and inflammation should discuss alternatives with a dermatologist. In darker skin, irritation can trigger dark marks, so starting slowly and using moisturizer matters. Do not use retinoids during pregnancy.3

When should you stop or get help?

Watch for redness, significant peeling, itching, burning or irritation. Stop the product and arrange a dermatology appointment if irritation develops. If washing alone leaves skin dry, reassess the cleanser and washing frequency rather than adding more cleansing.126

For acne, see a doctor if self treatment is not helping, spots are deep or painful, scars are developing, or acne affects your mental health. Hot, swollen or red skin also needs medical assessment; redness can be harder to see on brown and black skin. A face wash is not the right place to keep escalating treatment for severe acne.7