Why does retinol burn my face?

What makes the irritation worse?

Retinol is a type of retinoid, the family of vitamin A ingredients used on skin. Cosmetic retinol and prescription tretinoin are not interchangeable, although both can irritate. Retinoids can cause dryness, redness and peeling, sometimes called retinoid dermatitis: skin inflammation caused by the treatment. Allergic contact dermatitis, an allergic skin reaction, is another possibility, but it is rare.34

Starting with a strong formula, applying more than directed or using several antiaging products together can increase irritation. Rough cloths and gritty cleansers can also damage the moisture barrier, the outer layer that keeps water in your skin. You can start with one antiaging product, rather than appointing an entire bathroom cabinet to the job.123

Is burning just retinol purging?

Burning is irritation, not the same thing as the early increase in pimples sometimes called purging. Retinol side effects are usually temporary, and initial redness, itching or burning can settle as skin adjusts. That does not mean you should push through a burning cosmetic product. Skin improvement takes several weeks, and changes in wrinkles usually take several months; burning is not a measure of progress.5

How can I try retinol more gently?

Do not use a gentler application method as a reason to continue a product that is currently burning. If you decide to try retinol again, these are general starting steps for cosmetic retinol, not replacement directions for a prescription.2

1. 1Choose the lowest strength you can find. Test a small amount on your inner forearm twice daily for four to five days before using it on your face. Do not proceed if redness, itching or another reaction appears.
2. 2At bedtime, wash with a gentle cleanser and pat dry. Do not scrub.
3. 3Follow the package directions. General retinol guidance uses a thin layer, about a pea sized amount for the face, avoiding the eyes, mouth and nose.
4. 4Start once every few days rather than every night. Increase gradually only as your skin tolerates it.
5. 5Finish with a moisturizer that will not clog pores. A thin layer of moisturizer before retinol is another option to reduce irritation.
6. 6Use sunscreen during the day. Choose SPF 30 or higher, and also seek shade and wear protective clothing.

Gentle cleansing, moisturizer and sunscreen can form the rest of the routine, without giving every bottle in the cupboard a speaking role. Check whether your moisturizer already contains retinol before adding a separate serum. With prescription tretinoin, discuss other topical medicines with your prescriber, especially benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid. Preparations containing lots of alcohol or menthol can also sting treated skin.16

Who should be especially careful?

Dry, allergy prone or persistently red skin needs extra caution; retinoids can also worsen eczema through their drying effect. In darker skin, irritation can trigger dark marks called hyperpigmentation. Avoid retinoids during pregnancy. If you are planning pregnancy or breastfeeding and use tretinoin, discuss treatment with your prescriber.346

When should I contact a doctor?

Seek a dermatologist's advice if irritation keeps returning or your skin already has substantial redness or inflammation. For tretinoin, tell your doctor about severe or persistent burning, peeling, swelling or blistering. Call your doctor immediately for a rash, hives, or pain or discomfort at the treatment area.36