Why does retinol cause peeling?

What is happening to your skin?

The flakes come from the epidermis, your skin's outer layer. Retinol increases skin cell production and exfoliates the surface, but peeling also involves irritation. Retinol can trigger inflammation and disrupt components of the protective barrier. The exact irritation process is not fully understood. Redness, peeling, burning and itching together are often called retinoid dermatitis, meaning skin inflammation caused by a retinoid.23

Higher concentrations generally cause more irritation, and skin sensitivity, frequency of application and the formula also matter. Retinol must be converted into an active form in the skin; prescription tretinoin is already that active form. They are related, but their application instructions are not interchangeable.24

Choose the least intense retinol formula you can find rather than starting with the strongest option.5

How can you reduce peeling?

For cosmetic retinol, start slowly and use moisturizer. Follow the product's directions, because skincare marketing is not an application schedule.15

1. 1Test a little on a small area first. Wait a couple of days and check for marked redness or itching before applying it more widely.
2. 2At night, wash with a gentle cleanser and pat dry. Do not scrub.
3. 3Apply a thin layer, generally about a pea sized amount for the face, avoiding your eyes, nose and mouth. Start every other night, or once every few days if needed, rather than nightly.
4. 4Finish with a moisturizer that does not clog pores. For peeling skin, choose a fragrance free moisturizing cream or ointment.
5. 5During the day, use sunscreen, seek shade and wear protective clothing. Choose broad spectrum SPF 30 or higher with water resistance.

Let loose flakes come off naturally. Picking or pulling them can create openings that let bacteria in and increase infection risk. Wash with warm rather than hot water, which is drying.3

If you use prescription tretinoin or another prescribed retinoid, ask your dermatologist before changing the amount, frequency or moisturizer order. They can recommend less medication, fewer applications or moisturizer first. With tretinoin, do not add other topical medicines, including benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid, unless your doctor directs you to.67

How long does peeling last?

Retinol side effects are usually temporary and tend to settle as skin gets used to treatment. Visible improvement takes several weeks, and changes in wrinkles commonly take several months. Peeling and an early acne flare are different: retinol can initially worsen breakouts, sometimes called purging, while flaking is an irritation side effect. Do not treat persistent irritation as something you must endure to get results.1

When should you stop or get help?

Dry, allergy prone or sensitive skin needs particular caution. If your skin is already very red or inflamed, avoid retinoids and ask a dermatologist about alternatives. Irritation can trigger dark marks in darker skin. Do not use retinoids during pregnancy; discuss use while breastfeeding with your healthcare provider.15

Stop cosmetic retinol and seek medical advice for severe or persistent irritation. With tretinoin, contact your doctor for severe or ongoing peeling, swelling or blistering, and call immediately for rash, hives or pain. Unexplained peeling, fever or chills also need medical assessment.37