Retinol products for the face

What is the difference between retinol and retinoids?

Retinoids are a family of products derived from vitamin A. Retinol belongs to that family and is commonly used in cosmetics; retinaldehyde is another cosmetic retinoid. Retinol is available without a prescription, while several retinoids used to treat acne require one. Adapalene is available both with and without a prescription in the US; availability differs by country and product.13

Which product should you choose?

Choose a beginner formula rather than the most imposing product name, because the bottle is not applying for a promotion. Cosmetic retinol percentages are not always disclosed, so look for a clearly identified low strength formula rather than guessing from the packaging. Cream, gel and lotion describe the format, not three different levels of ambition.13

How do you start using retinol on your face?

1. 1Choose a low strength formula. For cosmetic retinol, begin every other night and increase use slowly rather than starting nightly.
2. 2Apply at night, following the product's amount and layering instructions. Take care around the eyes and lips, where topical retinoids can irritate.
3. 3Use moisturizer to help manage dryness. For a prescribed acne retinoid, ask your dermatologist before changing the amount, frequency or applying moisturizer first.
4. 4Protect your skin during the day with shade, protective clothing and sunscreen. For acne routines, choose a sunscreen labelled noncomedogenic, meaning it will not clog pores, with broad spectrum protection, SPF 30 or higher and water resistance.

What retinol products does The Ordinary offer?

The Ordinary also offers Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion, which the brand suggests as an alternative for people prone to sensitivity. The 1% retinol serum contains moisturizing squalane in a water free formula and is listed at US$9.90 for 30 ml. Its directions are a few drops in the evening, after serums and before heavier creams. Refrigerate after opening and use within three months.4

For Retinol 1% in Squalane, The Ordinary says not to combine it with other retinoids, direct acids, direct vitamin C, copper peptides or Multi Active Delivery Essence. Those are directions for this formula, not a universal ban on every combination involving a retinoid. Patch test before facial use and apply only to unbroken skin. This serum is not an acne treatment.4

How long do results take?

Acne treatment takes at least 6 to 8 weeks before fewer breakouts begin to appear, and topical retinoids can take 12 weeks or longer to show improvement. For sun damage and fine wrinkles, topical tretinoin can help with use beyond six months. Those timelines describe acne treatment and tretinoin, not a fixed deadline for a cosmetic retinol serum. There is no single reliable results schedule for every facial retinol product.23

Which retinol products help with acne?

For acne, the useful category is acne retinoids rather than cosmetic retinol. Adapalene, tretinoin, tazarotene and trifarotene are used to clear pores and treat blackheads, whiteheads and some pimples. Retinoids can also lighten dark spots left after acne and help maintain clearer skin once acne is controlled. A dermatologist can prescribe combinations containing a retinoid with benzoyl peroxide or an antibiotic to address different causes of acne. Use these combinations exactly as prescribed; applying more does not clear acne faster.2

Who should be careful with facial retinol?

Do not use retinoids during pregnancy. The Ordinary also advises avoiding its retinoid products while breastfeeding. Dry skin, skin allergies or substantial redness are reasons to seek advice before starting; topical retinoids can worsen eczema through dryness. On darker skin, irritation can leave dark marks, so starting slowly and using moisturizer matters. Existing acne scarring or breakouts linked to hormonal changes deserve a dermatologist's assessment before trying a retinoid.134

When should you stop or see a doctor?

Retinoids can cause dryness, redness and peeling. If The Ordinary Retinol 1% in Squalane causes irritation, rinse it off, stop using it and consult a physician. With a prescribed retinoid, report irritation to your dermatologist so they can adjust treatment. Seek medical help for acne that is not improving with self treatment, numerous spots, deep painful lumps, scarring or an effect on your mental health. Hot, swollen or red skin can signal infection and also needs medical assessment; redness can be harder to see on brown and black skin.2345