Why the acid matters

Face acids speed up the turnover of dead skin cells. Alpha hydroxy acids, or AHAs, loosen the material that holds surface skin cells together; beta hydroxy acids, or BHAs, go deeper into pores and help dissolve sebum, the oily substance your skin makes. The word acid makes the step sound like a chemistry exam, but the useful distinction is which acid you use.1

Glycolic acid is a strong exfoliant, so start slowly. Salicylic acid can help unclog pores and suits people with blackheads or whiteheads. Lactic acid is one of the gentler AHAs and can be a better fit for sensitive skin.1

What should you expect?

Facial acids can help make skin smoother and brighter, but they take time to work and need regular use. Do not increase how often you exfoliate just to chase a faster result; irritation is a reason to slow down, not a progress marker.1

How should you use an exfoliant?

Use glycolic acid at night. Increase its frequency over time only if your skin is not irritated. Facial acids can leave skin more prone to sun damage, so use sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher on your face every day.1

Can you exfoliate every day?

For salicylic acid, twice a day is possible for most people. That schedule is specific to salicylic acid, not a rule for every facial acid or exfoliant.1

How do you know if you are exfoliating too much?

Too much acid exfoliation can irritate skin and strip its top layer, including structures that hold water and healthy fats. Stinging, itching or burning, and visible redness, dryness, scaling or peeling, can be signs of sensitive or irritated skin. If an exfoliant causes these symptoms, stop using it and avoid it while the irritation is present. If facial redness lasts more than two weeks, make an appointment with a dermatologist.123

Should you exfoliate before or after cleansing?

As general guidance, cleanse first, then apply an acid exfoliant. A chemical peel procedure begins by thoroughly washing the face to remove surface oil before applying the peeling agent. A chemical peel starts with a clean face, a quieter opening than its name suggests.4

Where this answer comes from

  1. 1Facial Acids: Everything You Need To Knowhealth.clevelandclinic.org
  2. 2Sensitive skindermnetnz.org
  3. 310 reasons your face is redaad.org
  4. 4Chemical peels (face peels)dermnetnz.org