How to cover melasma on your face

What makeup should you use?

Start with everyday makeup if it gives you enough coverage. Concealers are usually thicker and more opaque than regular foundation, while specialist camouflage products offer another option when ordinary makeup is not enough. Everyday makeup can be sufficient, because camouflage is a job description, not a compulsory shopping list. Choose gentle, fragrance free products that do not irritate your skin.14

Melasma can appear as light brown, dark brown or blue gray patches, including on the cheeks, forehead and above the upper lip. Match the concealer to your natural skin colour rather than the darker patch you want to hide. If one shade does not match, mix two or more camouflage shades on the back of your hand. Colour matched liquid concealers are another option for a finish that resembles normal skin.125

How to apply coverage

1. 1Start with clean skin. For specialist camouflage creams, avoid a greasy base, which can make the cream slide.
2. 2Apply any prescribed melasma medication as directed, then sunscreen, then makeup. Keep the prescribed treatment underneath your coverage rather than replacing it with makeup.
3. 3Dab the concealer or camouflage cream over the area with a fingertip. A sponge is useful for larger areas; a fine brush helps with small areas.
4. 4Build coverage with thin layers. For camouflage cream that needs more coverage, set the first layer with its fixing powder before adding another thin layer.
5. 5For specialist camouflage creams, apply the appropriate finishing powder with a puff, leave it for a few minutes, then brush away the excess. Blot with a damp cloth or cotton wool pad to set the cream.

The powder method is for specialist camouflage creams, not a required extra step for every foundation. Getting a natural looking finish takes practice, because a camouflage pot does not come with an art qualification. A dermatologist can help with application tips or recommend specialist camouflage products if your usual makeup is not doing enough.13

Keep sunscreen underneath the coverage

Choose a tinted, broad spectrum, water resistant sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher and iron oxides. Visible light can worsen melasma, especially in darker skin tones, and iron oxide tinted sunscreen helps protect against it. A tint that matches your skin can also make uneven colour less noticeable before you add concealer. SPF 50 or higher is another option for the high protection used in melasma care.467

Makeup does not replace sunscreen. Outdoors, reapply sunscreen every two hours, or sooner after swimming or sweating, and use shade and a wide brimmed hat. Keep sun protection going throughout the year: pigmentation can return with sun exposure even after successful treatment.2347

Remove facial camouflage every night

Remove camouflage from your face and neck before bed, and apply fresh coverage the next day if wanted. Waterproof camouflage can need an oily cleansing cream or lotion to lift it off; follow with your normal gentle facial cleansing routine. Clean brushes and sponges with soapy water after use. If you blot wet, set camouflage dry, pat rather than rub.12

When to stop or get help

Stop using makeup or skincare that burns or stings: irritation can make dark spots darker. Stop camouflage cream immediately if an allergic reaction occurs and contact a healthcare professional. If the patches have not been diagnosed, see a dermatologist, since other conditions can look like melasma.234

Makeup conceals the colour; fading melasma is a separate, slower process. Treatment usually takes 3 to 12 months to show results, and longstanding melasma can take longer. Pregnancy related melasma can fade after delivery, but some melasma persists for years. Coverage is an option while waiting for treatment or if you simply want the patches less noticeable.34