What causes hyperpigmentation?

Hyperpigmentation means an area has extra melanin, the pigment that gives skin its colour. It can affect any skin tone. Common causes include sun damage, hormonal changes, medicines and inflammation after acne, cuts or burns. Less commonly, skin darkening is connected with an underlying medical condition. Treatment depends on the cause, which makes 'dark spots' a description rather than a shopping list.34

Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation is pigment left behind after skin inflammation or injury. The mark appears where the original problem healed and can range from light brown to black. Anyone can develop it, but in darker skin tones the colour tends to be more intense and last longer. Sunlight can darken these marks further.5

Melasma is a different pattern: blotchy brown patches, usually on both sides of the face. Common locations include the cheeks, forehead, nose and upper lip. Sunlight, visible light, pregnancy and hormonal contraception can contribute. Melasma can contain pigment near the surface, deeper in the skin or both; that depth affects how well treatment works.2

How to fade hyperpigmentation on the face

  1. 1Address the trigger first. Treat ongoing acne, eczema or psoriasis so new inflammation does not keep producing new marks.
  2. 2Remove irritation from the routine. Choose gentle products, including fragrance free options, and stop a product if it burns or stings.
  3. 3Protect exposed skin with sunscreen before going outside. For dark spots, choose a tinted formula containing iron oxide, with broad spectrum protection, water resistance and SPF 30 or higher.
  4. 4Use a pigment treatment after addressing the cause and sun exposure. Options include azelaic acid, glycolic acid, kojic acid, a retinoid or vitamin C.
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Follow the exact cream's instructions carefully rather than treating every lightening product as interchangeable. Greater care is needed with lightening preparations on darker skin. For hydroquinone and tretinoin preparations, do not extend use beyond three weeks at a time without clarifying the plan with your clinician. A prescribed treatment needs its own directions, not a schedule borrowed from another cream.4

What skincare ingredients help with hyperpigmentation?

Ingredient or treatmentWhere it fits
Azelaic acid and vitamin CTopical options for postinflammatory pigmentation and melasma.
TretinoinA topical retinoid used for postinflammatory pigmentation and in combination treatments for melasma.
Glycolic acidAn alpha hydroxy acid used in topical treatment and peels for surface pigmentation.
Kojic acidA pigment treatment that can reduce melanin production.
NiacinamideAlso called vitamin B3; an option used in topical treatment for hyperpigmentation.
HydroquinoneA lightening treatment used alone or in clinician directed combinations.
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For postinflammatory pigmentation, topical treatments target excess pigment in the epidermis, the outer layer of skin. Improvement varies, and combinations are often needed for a substantial change. Choosing an ingredient is only part of the decision: the original cause and the depth of the pigment also matter. A surface treatment and deeper pigmentation are not automatically a good match.5

For melasma, a combination of hydroquinone, tretinoin and a moderate potency topical steroid has had the most success among topical formulations. Other options include azelaic acid, cysteamine and tranexamic acid. Oral tranexamic acid is also used for melasma. These are treatment choices to discuss with a dermatologist, rather than ingredients to assemble into a homemade prescription.2

How to prevent hyperpigmentation from getting darker?

Protect your skin every day, including cloudy days. Apply sunscreen to skin not covered by clothing 15 minutes before going outside, then reapply at least every two hours and after swimming or sweating. Seek shade and wear a wide brimmed hat; sunglasses with UV protection add protection around the eyes. For melasma, tinted sunscreen containing iron oxide helps protect against visible light, which can worsen pigmentation, especially in darker skin tones.6

SPF 30 is the minimum sunscreen threshold; SPF 50 or higher is advised for exposed postinflammatory pigmentation and for melasma. Broad spectrum means protection against both UVA and UVB rays. SPF and tint serve different purposes: choose UV protection as well as iron oxide for visible light protection.35

Avoid tanning beds and sunlamps, which can worsen melasma and interfere with treatment. Keep skincare gentle: irritation can darken existing patches. Cosmetics can cover melasma while treatment takes time, so makeup does not have to wait for the pigment to finish its paperwork.6

How long does fading take?

After the cause stops, a mark a few shades darker than your usual skin colour typically fades within 6 to 12 months. Deeper pigment can take years and often looks slate blue, grey or very dark brown. Treatment can speed fading. Improvement from treatment can still take months, so judge progress over months rather than days.13

Melasma is slow to respond, especially when it has been present for a long time. Surface pigment generally responds better than deeper pigment, and mixed melasma often improves only partially. Pigmentation can return after summer sun exposure.2

Can peels or lasers remove hyperpigmentation?

Chemical peels, lasers and intense pulsed light can help some surface postinflammatory pigmentation, but the injury they cause can also worsen it. These procedures are not effective for postinflammatory pigment deposited deeper in the skin. Melasma procedures also carry risks of worsening pigmentation and relapse, and require expert use. Do not assume a procedure is a faster version of a cream.25

When should you see a doctor?

Get persistent, unexplained skin darkening assessed, especially if it spreads or causes significant concern. A sore or lesion that changes shape, size or colour needs medical assessment because it can be a sign of skin cancer. Hyperpigmentation itself does not cause pain or itching. See a clinician if the area is red, hot, itchy, painful or leaking blood or pus.34

If a medicine seems responsible, ask the prescriber about alternatives rather than stopping it yourself. Pregnancy can trigger pigmentation, but identifying that trigger does not select a suitable treatment. Persistent melasma can be assessed by a dermatologist for prescription medicines or procedures. Never apply liquid bleach to dark spots.16

Where this answer comes from

  1. 1How to fade dark spots in darker skin tonesaad.org
  2. 2Melasma (facial pigmentation)dermnetnz.org
  3. 3Hyperpigmentation: What it is, Causes, & Treatmentmy.clevelandclinic.org
  4. 4Abnormally dark or light skin: MedlinePlus Medical Encyclopediamedlineplus.gov
  5. 5Postinflammatory hyperpigmentationdermnetnz.org
  6. 6Melasma: Self-careaad.org