What kind of texture are you treating?

  • Flaky, itchy or rough skin can be dry skin. Start with moisturizing rather than aggressive exfoliation.
  • Small skin coloured bumps, particularly on the forehead and chin, can be closed comedones: blocked follicles also called whiteheads.
  • Small, painless bumps with rough skin on the arms, thighs or bottom can be keratosis pilaris, where keratin builds up in hair follicles.
  • Shallow holes left after spots can be acne scars. Moderate or severe acne scarring needs a dermatologist's assessment before trying a retinoid.
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How to build a routine for smoother skin

  1. 1Cleanse gently. For acne, wash twice daily with a gentle cleanser and remove makeup at the end of the day. Do not scrub or squeeze spots.
  2. 2Choose a treatment for your main concern. Salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide are options for acne; a pharmacist can help you choose. Retinol is an option for uneven texture.
  3. 3Moisturize. Apply moisturizer immediately after exfoliating. Moisturizer also helps limit irritation when starting a retinoid.
  4. 4Protect your skin during the day. If using a retinoid, apply sunscreen to uncovered skin, seek shade and wear protective clothing.
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Choose products for the concern you are treating, because a bathroom shelf is not a treatment plan.4

Should you use retinol?

Retinol is a type of retinoid, a vitamin A based ingredient used to improve uneven tone, pigmentation and texture. Start with the lowest strength you can find, every other night, then build up slowly if tolerated. Use retinoids at night. Avoid retinoids during pregnancy. If your skin is dry, allergic, very red or inflamed, ask a dermatologist about alternatives before starting. Irritation can trigger dark marks in darker skin, so watch for irritation rather than pushing through it.1

Should you exfoliate?

Exfoliation removes dead surface cells, but it is optional. Dry, sensitive or acne prone skin can find scrubs too irritating; a mild chemical exfoliator is an alternative. Avoid aggressive exfoliation if you have darker skin or develop dark marks after irritation. There is no universal schedule: stronger methods need less frequent use. Do not exfoliate cuts, wounds or sunburn. Exfoliating while using retinol, prescription retinoids or benzoyl peroxide can worsen dryness and breakouts. Stop exfoliating if your skin becomes red or irritated.4

What about rough bumps on your body?

For keratosis pilaris, moisturize, use mild unperfumed washing products and take cool or lukewarm showers. Gentle washing with a washcloth can help; avoid harsh scrubs, picking and rubbing. The condition often lasts years and can eventually clear by itself. Ask a pharmacist about creams if home care is not helping or the skin becomes itchy or inflamed.3

How long does improvement take?

Clogged pore treatments take several weeks to months for worthwhile improvement, and continued treatment is often needed. Pick a treatment you can use consistently, rather than giving the bathroom cabinet a constantly changing cast.2

See a doctor if acne is not improving with treatment, is deep or painful, causes scars or affects your mental health. Hot, swollen and red skin also needs medical assessment; redness can be harder to see on brown and black skin.5

Where this answer comes from

  1. 1Retinoid or retinol?aad.org
  2. 2Comedonal acnedermnetnz.org
  3. 3Keratosis pilarisnhs.uk
  4. 4How to safely exfoliate at homeaad.org
  5. 5Acnenhs.uk