How to start using retinol

Which retinol should you start with?

Retinol is one member of the retinoid family, a group of vitamin A based ingredients. It is available without a prescription and is used to improve uneven tone, pigmentation and texture. Choose a low strength formula rather than starting with the strongest option. Retinol percentages do not have to appear on the packaging, so an undisclosed percentage is not a useful way to judge strength. Prescription tretinoin and acne treatments such as adapalene are different retinoids, not interchangeable names for your retinol.1

How to apply retinol at night

Your evening routine can be just cleanser, retinol and moisturizer, without recruiting an ensemble cast of serums.

1. 1Wash your face with a mild cleanser. Use your hands gently rather than scrubbing with a rough cloth.
2. 2Apply a pea sized amount of retinol to your face. Keep it away from the eyes and lips, where retinoids can cause irritation.
3. 3Apply moisturizer afterwards. If retinol is irritating, a thin layer of moisturizer before retinol can help reduce irritation while still allowing retinol to work.
4. 4Begin every other night. Increase frequency slowly as your skin tolerates it, rather than moving straight to nightly use.

What about the rest of your routine?

Introduce as few new products as possible so you can identify what causes a reaction. Avoid heavily fragranced products and abrasive scrubs. A retinol serum does not need a retinol moisturizer beside it, even if the bottles look like they were designed to be reunited. Choose products that complement each other instead of doubling up on the same active ingredient.23

In the morning, cleanse, moisturize and finish with a broad spectrum sunscreen of SPF 30 or higher. Retinoids can increase sun sensitivity, so also seek shade and wear protective clothing. If you have sensitive skin, look for sunscreen containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. If you already use vitamin C, keep it in the morning routine and retinol at night.135

How long before you see results?

Expect to start seeing improvements after about three months of regular use of an ordinary retinol product. Retinol helps old skin cells shed and can reduce fine lines by slowing collagen breakdown. Prescription retinoids can work faster for some people. For acne treated with topical retinoid medication, improvement can take 12 weeks or longer. Those are different treatments, so do not use a prescription treatment's timetable to judge a cosmetic retinol.34

Who should be careful, and when should you stop?

Retinoids can cause redness, peeling and dry skin, and can worsen eczema. If irritation develops, stop the product and make an appointment with a dermatologist. Irritation does not automatically mean an allergy. With darker skin, irritation can also trigger dark marks, so starting slowly and using moisturizer are especially useful.1245

Do not use retinol during pregnancy; if you are planning pregnancy, avoid topical retinoids and discuss alternatives with your clinician. Speak to a dermatologist before starting if you have skin allergies, substantial dryness, persistent redness or inflammation, significant acne scarring, or acne linked to hormonal changes.16

If you use a prescribed retinoid, follow your dermatologist's directions rather than this beginner schedule. Changes to the amount, frequency or moisturizer order should be made with their help. Retinoids are sometimes prescribed alongside other acne medicines, so do not assume every combination needs to be avoided.5