How to stop oily skin

Start with this morning and evening routine

1. 1Wash your face in the morning and evening with a gentle cleanser. Use warm water, not hot water, and wash without scrubbing. Also wash after exercise.
2. 2Apply moisturizer regularly. Oily skin needs hydration, and drying it out too much can encourage more oil production.
3. 3Protect your face every day with a broad spectrum, water resistant sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher. Sun damage makes skin less firm, which can make pores more noticeable.
4. 4Remove makeup before bed. Use skincare and makeup labeled noncomedogenic, meaning designed not to clog pores, or oil free.

An unscented, mild foaming cleanser is a useful starting point. Avoid harsh, drying products and alcohol based products that irritate skin. A bottle can advertise oily skin on the front and still be too harsh for the job.1

What helps with shine right now?

Press an oil absorbing sheet against shiny areas to blot away surface oil. Do not rub it around your face, which spreads oil and can irritate skin. Mattifying makeup or skincare can also help with visible shine. Blotting removes the oil already on your face; it does not give the gland a resignation letter.1

Add salicylic acid if your pores are clogged

Salicylic acid helps unclog pores, so it is useful when oiliness comes with blackheads or blocked pores. Some salicylic acid cleansers are gentle enough for daily use. If yours dries or irritates your skin, alternate it with a mild cleanser: use the mild cleanser in the morning and the salicylic acid cleanser before bed. Do not scrub harder to compensate for clogged pores. Scrubbing causes irritation and can make pores look larger.4

Would retinol help?

Retinol or retinyl palmitate can help make pores less noticeable when you have oily skin or mild acne. Apply before bed. If the product irritates your skin, wash your face and wait 30 minutes before applying it. Do not use retinol or retinyl palmitate during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Prescription retinoid medicines such as tretinoin and adapalene are also used to reduce acne related inflammation and oiliness and prevent spots; discuss treatment with a clinician rather than treating them as interchangeable with cosmetic retinol.34

Do clay masks and niacinamide help?

A mask containing kaolin or bentonite clay can absorb oil. Niacinamide in a mask can help reduce shine and acne. Lightweight moisturizing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid help prevent overdrying without adding extra oil. Masks are optional additions, not replacements for cleansing, moisturizing, sunscreen or acne treatment. A mask gets a supporting role, not custody of the whole routine.5

Test a new mask on small areas first, apply gently with your fingertips and follow its label for frequency and contact time. Avoid fragrance, essential oils, rubbing alcohol and rough particles such as walnut shells. Strong exfoliating masks need particular caution on sensitive skin. If you already use retinol or an exfoliating acid, avoid masks that duplicate those active ingredients: extra exfoliation can cause dryness and irritation. Wash a mask off immediately if it causes itching, burning or stinging, then apply moisturizer after rinsing. See a dermatologist if your skin feels worse after using it.5

Do not squeeze every dot on your nose

Small, flat gray, light brown or yellow dots can be sebaceous filaments: normal structures that help move sebum, your skin's oil, to the surface. They are not acne. Blackheads contain a plug of oil and dead skin; sebaceous filaments allow oil to travel freely. Filaments become more noticeable when glands produce excess oil, particularly around the nose, forehead, chin and cheeks. Their presence does not mean you have failed to clean your face.2

You cannot remove sebaceous filaments permanently, but skincare can make them less noticeable. Salicylic acid dissolves dead skin cells that can clog follicles, and retinoids help prevent clogged pores. Squeezing can irritate or seriously damage skin, and emptied pores fill again within 30 days. Pore strips can remove these normal structures as well as blackheads, drying skin and allowing bacteria in. If a consistent routine and shop bought products do not reduce their appearance enough, a clinician can discuss stronger medicines that decrease oil production.2

At what age does oily skin stop?

There is no fixed age when oily skin stops. Skin commonly becomes oilier during puberty, when oil glands enlarge and produce more oil. Glands generally slow down as you get older, so skin tends to become drier. Oiliness also depends on genetics, hormone fluctuations and weather, not just age. Visible pores are not a reliable measure of oil production: skin loosening in your 40s and 50s can make pores and sebaceous filaments more noticeable.126

How long should you wait, and when should you get help?

Routine changes take time; oily skin does not disappear overnight. If you see no improvement after a month or two, consider a dermatologist. Oily skin alone is a cosmetic concern, but persistent oiliness that bothers you is a valid reason to discuss treatment.1

Get medical help sooner if you have deep, painful spots, scarring, lots of spots, hot or swollen skin, or acne affecting your mental health. A pharmacist can advise on acne treatments such as salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide. Acne that does not improve with self treatment can need prescription care, including medicines applied to skin or taken by mouth.3

If oiliness and acne appear alongside irregular periods, new coarse facial or body hair, or scalp hair loss, arrange a medical assessment. These can be signs of excess androgens, a group of sex hormones. Seek prompt assessment if these changes develop rapidly and suddenly. Treatment depends on the cause, so do not try to manage suspected hormone changes with skincare alone.7