How to use retinol for skincare

What is retinol in skincare?

Retinol is a form of vitamin A and one member of the retinoid family. Retinal, also called retinaldehyde, is a related, more potent form. Tretinoin, adapalene, tazarotene and trifarotene are other retinoids, with different uses and effects. Retinoid does not simply mean prescription retinol: adapalene is available without a prescription in some formulations. Cosmetic retinol and a prescribed retinoid need different instructions, so follow the directions for the product you actually have.23

What does retinol do for skin?

Retinol helps skin shed old surface cells and replace them with new ones. It helps prevent clogged pores and supports collagen, the protein that gives skin structure. Those effects can improve uneven texture, pigmentation and fine lines. Retinoids also treat blackheads, whiteheads and some pimples, and can help lighten dark marks left after acne. For acne that is already controlled, a dermatologist can use a topical retinoid as ongoing maintenance treatment.245

Which retinol strength should you start with?

Start with the lowest strength or least intense formula you can find, rather than choosing the strongest option immediately. There is no standard requirement for cosmetic retinol products to disclose their percentage, so some labels will not give you a number to compare. Prescription strength is not necessary for most people seeking improvements in aging signs. A dermatologist can help choose a retinoid when acne, irritation or an unclear product choice makes the decision less straightforward.24

Who should be careful with retinol?

Retinoids are an option for mild acne, mild uneven pigmentation and mild fine lines. Dry, sensitive or allergy prone skin needs more caution. Retinoids can worsen eczema through their drying effect; substantial redness or inflammation is a reason to ask a dermatologist about alternatives before starting. On darker skin, irritation can trigger hyperpigmentation, meaning dark marks, so starting slowly and using moisturizer matter especially. Do not use retinoids during pregnancy. If you are breastfeeding, discuss retinol with your healthcare provider before using it.126

How to apply retinol at night

1. 1Test a little product on a small area first. Wait a couple of days and check for significant redness or itching before adding retinol to your routine.
2. 2Wash with a gentle cleanser and pat your skin dry. Do not scrub.
3. 3Follow the package directions. General facial guidance is a pea sized amount spread in a thin layer over the face, keeping retinol out of your eyes, mouth and nose.
4. 4Finish with moisturizer. If you are prone to acne, choose one labeled noncomedogenic, meaning formulated not to clog pores.
5. 5Begin every other night for the first couple of weeks, or once every few days if you need a slower introduction. Build up gradually rather than moving straight to daily use.

Does moisturizer go before or after retinol?

Moisturizer normally follows retinol. If cosmetic retinol irritates your skin, applying a thin layer of moisturizer first can provide a buffer while allowing retinol to work. With a prescribed retinoid, ask your dermatologist before changing the amount, frequency or order of application. The evening routine can stay short, even if the skincare aisle would prefer an agenda.45

Avoid duplicating retinol across several products: a separate retinol serum generally makes a retinol face cream unnecessary. Choose products that complement the routine rather than repeat the same active. If you use vitamin C, a simple arrangement is vitamin C in the morning and retinol at night. Benzoyl peroxide is not automatically incompatible with every retinoid; some prescription acne medicines combine them. Use those combinations exactly as prescribed rather than assembling your own equivalent.45

What should you do the next morning?

Retinoids can increase sun sensitivity. Use a broad spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher and water resistance on exposed skin, and combine it with shade and protective clothing. Apply sunscreen every day, not just on sunny days: UVA rays can reach you through windows. For sensitive skin, a sunscreen containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide is an option. A moisturizer with sunscreen can reduce the number of products in your morning routine.245

How long does retinol take to work?

Visible changes take weeks to months. With regular cosmetic retinol use, expect improvements around three months; wrinkles and pigmentation can take several months. Acne treatment often takes at least six to eight weeks before fewer breakouts appear, while topical retinoids can take 12 weeks or longer. Early breakouts can continue or look worse during adjustment, sometimes called a purge. That does not mean every new rash or painful reaction is something to push through.1456

What should you stop for?

Dryness, peeling, redness, itching and burning are possible side effects. Retinoids can cause irritant dermatitis, an inflamed reaction to irritation, and rarely an allergic skin reaction. Pause cosmetic retinol if irritation is substantial or keeps worsening, and seek advice rather than increasing use. Irritation does not automatically mean an allergy: a dermatologist can sometimes adjust treatment to make a retinoid tolerable. Keep retinoids away from the eyes and lips, where they can be particularly irritating.56

For acne, see a doctor if self treatment is not helping, spots are deep or painful, scarring is developing, or acne is affecting your mental health. Hot, swollen or red skin also needs medical assessment. Redness can be harder to see on brown and black skin. Severe acne is not a job for a cosmetic retinol routine alone, and acne linked to hormonal changes or substantial scarring warrants a dermatologist's assessment.27

Can you use retinol serum for body care?

Retinol can belong in body care, including routines for aging signs on the neck and hands. An aging skincare routine can include those areas too, despite facial skincare getting most of the shelf space. Follow the particular product's directions rather than treating the facial pea sized amount as a body dose. Do not turn a facial serum into treatment for extensive chest or back acne: topical retinoids are not suitable for treating large body areas that way. Get advice about a treatment suited to the extent of the acne.46