How to use retinol properly

Start with a gentle formula

Retinol is a form of vitamin A and belongs to the retinoid family. Choose the lowest strength you can find rather than starting with the strongest option. Retinol percentages are not always listed on packaging, so there is no universal starting percentage to look for. Prescription retinoids such as tretinoin have their own directions; follow your prescriber's plan rather than treating them like a cosmetic serum.1245

How to apply retinol

A gentle cleanser, retinol and moisturizer make a complete evening routine, so the bathroom shelf does not need a supporting cast.

1. 1Test a little retinol on a small area first. Wait a couple of days; do not proceed if the area becomes very red or itchy.
2. 2At bedtime, wash with a gentle cleanser and pat your skin dry. Do not scrub.
3. 3Apply a thin layer across your face, avoiding your eyes, mouth and nose. A pea sized amount is general guidance; follow the package directions for your product.
4. 4Finish with a moisturizer labeled noncomedogenic, meaning formulated not to clog pores.
5. 5Start every other night for the first couple of weeks, or once every few days if needed. Increase gradually as your skin tolerates it, within the product's directions.

How do you use retinol serum properly?

Use a retinol serum in the retinol step, before moisturizer. Follow the serum's directions for the amount rather than assuming every dropper dispenses the same dose. If retinol irritates your skin, applying a thin layer of moisturizer first can help reduce irritation while allowing retinol to work. A separate retinol serum usually makes a retinol moisturizer unnecessary, even if the bottles look like they were meant to retire together. Choose products that complement each other rather than duplicating retinol across several layers.13

What should you do the next morning?

Retinoids can make skin more sensitive to sunlight. Use a broad spectrum, water resistant sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher on uncovered skin, and add shade and protective clothing. Sunscreen belongs in the daily routine, not just on sunny days. For sensitive skin, consider a mineral sunscreen containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide.25

How long does retinol take to work?

Visible improvement takes several weeks, and changes in fine lines often take several months. With regular use of an over the counter retinol, expect to assess improvement around three months rather than after a few applications. Acne can initially look worse. Prescription topical retinoids used for acne can take 12 weeks or longer to show improvement.134

Who should be careful?

• Do not use retinol or other retinoids during pregnancy. Ask your healthcare provider before using retinol while breastfeeding.
• Dryness, peeling, redness, itching and burning are possible. If irritation develops, ask a dermatologist how to adjust your routine. For prescribed retinoids, change the amount, frequency or moisturizer order with your dermatologist's help.
• Retinoids can worsen eczema. Skin allergies, persistent dryness or substantial redness and inflammation are reasons to discuss alternatives before starting.
• On darker skin, irritation can trigger dark marks. Starting slowly and using moisturizer helps reduce that risk.
• See a dermatologist before self treating moderate or severe acne scarring or acne linked to hormonal changes.