Is ceramide a lipid?

What kind of lipid is ceramide?

A ceramide consists of a sphingosine base joined to a fatty acid. Those building blocks can differ, so ceramide names a family of related molecules rather than one identical ingredient. Different ceramides have different structures and functions. Ceramides also participate in cell signalling, the messages that regulate how cells behave. Their role is therefore broader than moisturising, although supporting the skin barrier is the role most relevant to skincare.13

Where are ceramides in your skin?

Ceramides are an important part of the lipid layers between cells in the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of your skin. This layer has a brick and mortar arrangement: dead skin cells form the bricks, while lipids form the material between them. Ceramides make up approximately 50% of these intercellular lipids by weight, not half of your entire skin. The lipid layers help bind the cells together, retain water and limit water loss. The barrier also controls the passage of chemicals from the environment into the skin.14

Why put ceramides in a moisturiser?

Lower ceramide levels are associated with dry skin and a weakened barrier. As skin ages, it replenishes its natural ceramides more slowly. Moisturisers containing natural or synthetic ceramides can improve water retention and barrier function. Ceramide formulations can also improve dryness and barrier function in people with atopic dermatitis, a form of eczema. The practical benefit is better moisture retention and support for the barrier, rather than simply adding water to the surface.12

How do you recognise ceramides on a label?

Common names include ceramide EOS, ceramide NP and ceramide AP. Natural ceramides occur in humans and other animals; synthetic ceramides are made by people and commonly used in skincare. Ceramides appear in moisturisers, serums, lotions, toners and creams. Products often advertise ceramides on the front, but the ingredient list is where the large lettering has to do some actual work.2

What works alongside ceramides?

Ceramides work well alongside humectants, which attract and bind water, emollients, which soften skin, and occlusives, which help keep moisture from escaping. Ingredients to look for include glycerin, hyaluronic acid, dimethicone, colloidal oatmeal and shea butter. A moisturiser can combine several of these functions, so the bathroom does not need a separate department for each one.25

How should you use a ceramide moisturiser?

1. 1Choose a texture for your level of dryness. A cream or ointment is generally more effective for dry skin than a lotion; a gel feels lighter for oily skin.
2. 2Wash your face or shower, then apply moisturiser while your skin is still damp. Aim to apply it within three minutes of washing to help trap water.
3. 3For excessively dry skin, choose a moisturiser you can comfortably use at least twice a day. With combination skin, focus moisturiser on the dry areas rather than automatically covering oily areas.

What should sensitive or irritated skin watch for?

For dry skin, avoid fragranced moisturisers because fragrance can irritate. Barrier creams can occasionally cause an allergic reaction to preservatives, fragrance or other ingredients, and some occlusive formulas can aggravate acne. Most barrier creams should not go directly on broken skin. Stop using a product that causes irritation. If moisturising does not help, or dryness becomes painful, cracked, bleeding or persistently stinging, see a dermatologist.56