What does moisturizer actually do?
Moisturizers add moisture, soften the skin and reduce water loss. Humectants attract and retain water in the skin's outer layer. Occlusives form a protective layer that slows evaporation. These effects help maintain the skin barrier, the outer layer that protects skin, and reduce dryness and itch.4
When do you need moisturizer?
- Dry or flaky skin: Moisturizer is a main treatment. Roughness, scaling and cracks are signs of dryness.
- Seasonal dryness: Cold weather, low humidity and indoor heating can increase your need for moisturizer.
- Combination skin: Moisturize dry patches and skip oily areas rather than automatically covering the whole face.
- Acne treatment: Benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, adapalene, tazarotene, tretinoin and isotretinoin tend to dry and irritate skin. Daily moisturizer can help with tolerability.
Moisturizing is a response to dryness, not an attendance requirement for a skincare routine.2
Which moisturizer should you choose?
A lotion can suit mild dryness. Creams are thicker and more hydrating; ointments are the most protective option for very dry skin, but feel greasier. A gel feels lighter and is an option for oily skin. For dry or sensitive skin, choose a fragrance free product. For acne prone skin, look for "oil free," "noncomedogenic" or "won't clog pores" on the container. These descriptions indicate a lower likelihood of causing acne.234
The best choice depends on dryness, comfort, cost and availability, not whether the jar looks qualified to hold jewellery.1
How should you apply moisturizer?
- 1Wash your hands before applying moisturizer. If using a tub, take the product out with a clean spoon rather than your fingers.
- 2After washing your face or bathing, leave the skin slightly damp. Applying moisturizer then helps trap water.
- 3Smooth moisturizer over the areas that need it, following the direction of hair growth rather than rubbing vigorously.
- 4Leave the product on to soak in. A leave on moisturizer does not need rinsing off.
Match frequency to dryness rather than a fixed morning and evening rule. Slightly dry skin may only need a light moisturizer at night. Very dry skin can need a thicker product every couple of hours. You can use a less greasy cream during the day and an ointment overnight. Reapply when skin feels dry, and adjust during colder weather.45
What should you expect?
Moisturizer helps soften skin and reduce dryness, but ongoing dryness can need regular application. Most patients in acne treatment studies saw less acne after 4 to 8 weeks while using medication, cleanser and an acne friendly moisturizer together. That timing is for the combined treatment plan, not moisturizer alone.3
When should you stop or get help?
Stop using a moisturizer that makes your skin itchy or sore. See a dermatologist if dryness does not improve or becomes painful, cracked, bleeding, stinging or very irritating. If you use a prescribed topical steroid, keep moisturizer application at least 30 minutes apart from it. Keep away from smoking and flames after applying paraffin based emollients.25
Where this answer comes from
- 1Dry Skin (Xeroderma): Causes, Treatments, and Moredermnetnz.org
- 2How to pick the right moisturizer for your skinaad.org
- 3Moisturizer: Why you may need it if you have acneaad.org
- 4Emollients and Moisturizers (Moisturisers)dermnetnz.org
- 5Emollients and how to use them - Overviewguysandstthomas.nhs.uk