Is exfoliating necessary?

What should you do instead?

Prioritize gentle cleansing, moisturizer and sun protection. Wash with a mild cleanser and your fingertips rather than scrubbing skin clean. Moisturize when skin feels dry. Before going outdoors, use a water resistant sunscreen with broad spectrum protection against UVA and UVB rays and SPF 30 or higher. Exfoliation does not replace any of these steps.45

When is exfoliation useful?

Choose exfoliation for a specific concern, not because a bottle has volunteered to become another step. Removing dead surface cells can improve dullness and roughness. Chemical exfoliants can also help with uneven surface pigmentation and some acne. Expect improvements in surface appearance, not the disappearance of wrinkles. Facial acids take time and regular use to work; increasing the amount is not a shortcut.146

Exfoliation can also help rough, flaky arms and legs. For keratosis pilaris, a harmless condition that causes small bumps, gentle washing with a washcloth or exfoliating mitt and regular moisturizing can improve appearance. Avoid harsh scrubs, which can make it worse. If the bumps become itchy or inflamed, or home care is not helping, ask a pharmacist for advice.17

Which type should you choose?

• Physical exfoliation uses a washcloth, brush, sponge or scrub to lift away dead cells. Abrasive scrubs and forceful rubbing can aggravate skin.
• Chemical exfoliation uses ingredients such as alpha hydroxy acids or beta hydroxy acids to loosen dead cells. Salicylic acid also works inside pores, making it useful for blackheads and whiteheads.
• Lactic acid is a gentler alpha hydroxy acid that also moisturizes. Glycolic acid is stronger and needs a slow introduction.

Dry, sensitive or acne prone skin generally needs a milder approach. Avoid strong chemical exfoliation or abrasive methods if you have a darker skin tone or develop dark marks after irritation, because aggressive exfoliation can increase pigmentation. Check your existing routine first: prescription retinoids, retinol and benzoyl peroxide can make skin more sensitive or cause peeling. Adding exfoliation can worsen dryness or breakouts.2

How do you exfoliate safely?

1. 1Choose a mild method and follow the product directions. Start with a lower strength chemical exfoliant rather than a strong acid.
2. 2Apply gently. For a rinse off scrub, use small circular motions for about 30 seconds, then rinse with lukewarm water. With a brush or sponge, use short, light strokes.
3. 3Apply moisturizer immediately afterward to help keep skin hydrated.
4. 4Protect skin with sunscreen every day, because exfoliation can increase susceptibility to sun damage.

How often should you exfoliate?

Start once or twice a week rather than daily. For glycolic acid, start at night. Stronger methods need less frequent use, and skin needs time to recover between sessions. Exfoliating products can appear in cleansers, masks and body washes, which makes a crowded shelf a poor measure of how much exfoliation you need. Check what you already use before adding another exfoliant.1246

When should you stop?

Stop if exfoliation leaves skin red, raw, irritated or increasingly dry. Never exfoliate sunburned skin, open cuts or wounds. If you are unsure whether exfoliation suits your skin or how it fits around prescription products, a dermatologist can help you decide.24