Skin naturally sheds dead cells, a process called desquamation. That shedding slows with age. Dead cells can make skin look dull or uneven and can clog pores; exfoliation helps remove them from the surface.3
Is exfoliating the same as washing?
Washing removes dirt, makeup and grime. Exfoliation targets dead skin cells. Some cleansers contain exfoliating acids, so one product can do both. Cleansing and exfoliating do different jobs, even when a bottle would prefer to take credit for both. Ordinary face washing should be gentle: use a mild cleanser and your fingertips, rinse completely, then pat dry rather than scrubbing your skin clean.34
What are the two types of exfoliation?
| Type | How it works | Examples |
|---|---|---|
| Physical, also called mechanical | Uses rubbing or a tool to lift away dead cells. | Washcloths, scrubs, brushes and sponges. |
| Chemical | Uses exfoliating ingredients to dissolve or loosen dead cells. | Alpha hydroxy acids, or AHAs, and beta hydroxy acids, or BHAs. |
AHAs loosen the bonds holding surface cells together. Lactic acid is a gentler AHA that also acts as a moisturizer. BHAs dissolve in oil and reach further into pores. Salicylic acid is a common BHA that helps remove excess oil and unclog pores, making it useful for blackheads and whiteheads. Chemical exfoliation does not require gritty particles or a scrubbing tool.5
Do you need to exfoliate?
No. Exfoliation is optional, despite the impressive number of bottles volunteering for the job. The main reasons to try it are cosmetic: smoother texture, less dullness and more even surface pigmentation. It can also help unclog pores and improve some types of acne. Treat it as a way to improve the skin's surface, not a way to erase wrinkles.2
Acid products take time to work and need regular use to maintain their benefits. Stronger is not automatically better: removing too much of the outer layer can disrupt the structures that keep water and healthy fats in your skin.5
How do you start safely?
- 1Check your current routine. Retinol, prescription retinoids and benzoyl peroxide can increase sensitivity or peeling; adding exfoliation can worsen dryness or breakouts.
- 2Start gently. A simple washcloth lets you assess your response to mild physical exfoliation. For acids, begin with a lower concentration rather than jumping to a stronger product.
- 3Use light pressure. For a scrub, use small circular motions for about 30 seconds, then rinse with lukewarm water. Use short, light strokes with a brush or sponge.
- 4Apply moisturizer immediately afterwards because exfoliation can dry the skin.
- 5Protect your skin from the sun. Use a sunscreen offering broad spectrum protection, SPF 30 or higher, and water resistance before going outdoors.
How often should you exfoliate?
Do not make daily exfoliation your starting point. A cautious general limit is two or three times a week at most, leaving time for skin to recover. More aggressive methods need less frequent use. For glycolic acid specifically, start once or twice a week at night.125
Who should be careful?
Dry, sensitive or acne prone skin can find mechanical exfoliation too irritating. Avoid strong chemical or mechanical methods if you have darker skin or develop dark spots after skin injuries. Never exfoliate sunburn, open cuts or wounds. Stop if exfoliation causes redness or irritation. A dermatologist can help you decide whether exfoliation suits your skin and which method to use.1
Where this answer comes from
- 1How to safely exfoliate at homeaad.org
- 2Have you exfoliated lately?health.harvard.edu
- 35 Ways to Exfoliate Your Skin Without Irritationhealth.clevelandclinic.org
- 410 skin care secrets for healthier-looking skinaad.org
- 5Facial Acids: Everything You Need To Knowhealth.clevelandclinic.org
