Does exfoliating lighten skin?

What does "lighten" actually mean?

Exfoliation removes dead cells from the outer layer of skin. Removing those cells can reveal a smoother, brighter surface. Brighter means a fresher, more even appearance here, not a request for your face to become a paint sample. Glycolic acid can also lighten dark spots caused by mild sun damage or acne. Kojic acid, another ingredient used for pigmentation, acts on excess melanin, the pigment that gives skin its colour, without changing your original skin tone.123

Can exfoliating make skin darker?

Yes. Irritation or injury can trigger postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, meaning dark marks left after inflammation. Anyone can develop these marks, but they are more common, stronger in colour and longer lasting in darker skin tones. Avoid strong scrubs, brushes and strong chemical exfoliation if you have darker skin or tend to develop dark marks after spots, burns or insect bites. More aggressive exfoliation can produce exactly the pigmentation you wanted to fade.34

How to exfoliate for a more even tone

1. 1Choose a gentle method. Dry, sensitive or acne prone skin is more easily irritated by mechanical exfoliation. Lactic acid is a gentler exfoliating acid; glycolic acid is stronger and needs a cautious start.
2. 2Test a little glycolic acid on one area first. Begin once or twice a week at night, increasing only if your skin tolerates it. Other exfoliants need a schedule suited to the method and your skin, not an automatic daily slot.
3. 3Avoid stacking actives when starting glycolic acid. Leave out other exfoliating acids, retinol and vitamin C serums initially. Prescription retinoids and benzoyl peroxide can also make exfoliation more irritating.
4. 4Apply gently. For a rinse off scrub or exfoliator, use small circular motions for about 30 seconds, then rinse with lukewarm water. Apply moisturizer immediately afterwards. Never exfoliate sunburn, open cuts or wounds.
5. 5Protect against further darkening. Use sunscreen daily. For dark spots, choose a tinted formula with iron oxide, SPF 30 or higher, broad spectrum protection and water resistance. Apply before going outside and reapply every two hours outdoors and after swimming or sweating.

How long does fading take?

Home glycolic acid products can take several months of consistent use to noticeably improve brightness or uneven pigmentation. Once the cause of a dark spot stops, a mark a few shades darker than your natural colour usually fades within 6 to 12 months. Deeper pigment can take years. Those fading times are not an exfoliation timetable: continuing irritation can keep creating new marks.15

Would a professional peel work better?

Professional peels remove several layers of damaged skin, so "peel" is doing rather a lot of work in the treatment name. Superficial peels can reduce surface pigmentation, often through repeated treatments. Peels can also worsen pigmentation by injuring skin, and they do not treat pigment lying deeper in the dermis. Darker skin needs particular care because pigmentation changes and scarring are greater risks.46

When should you stop or get help?

Stop using a product that burns or stings. Be cautious with glycolic acid if you have dry or sensitive skin, rosacea, eczema or an active skin infection. During pregnancy or breastfeeding, check with your healthcare provider before using glycolic acid. See a dermatologist if dark spots keep appearing or treatment is not helping; identifying and treating the cause matters more than adding another exfoliation session.15