Is retinol a vitamin A derivative?

What is the difference between vitamin A, retinol and retinoids?

Vitamin A is the broader vitamin category. Retinol is one form, while retinoid is the family name covering retinol and related compounds. Retinal and retinoic acid are natural derivatives of retinol. Synthetic retinoids include adapalene and tazarotene. The useful comparison is between named retinoids, rather than retinol versus its own family, which is an unusually busy way to compare one thing.12

The body converts retinol to retinoic acid in two steps: first to retinal, then to retinoic acid. Retinoic acid acts through receptors inside cells that regulate gene activity. This explains the relationship between the names, but it does not make every retinoid interchangeable: different retinoids have different potency and tolerability.12

What does retinol do for skin?

Retinol increases skin cell production, helps prevent clogged pores and increases collagen production. These effects can help with acne and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Retinol is also used to improve uneven tone, pigmentation and texture. A cosmetic retinol product is not the same treatment as a prescription retinoid.35

Expect several weeks before visible improvement, rather than an immediate change. Fine lines and dark spots can take several months to improve. Acne can look worse initially, and pimples can continue during the first couple of months. Redness, itching, burning and peeling are also possible side effects, not reasons to apply more.5

How should you start using retinol?

Start with the lowest strength you can find rather than choosing the most intense formula. Retinol percentages are not always disclosed on products available without a prescription. A retinol label can omit the percentage, so the packaging can be more forthcoming about almost anything else.3

1. 1Test a small amount on a small patch of skin. Wait a couple of days and check for marked redness or itching before proceeding.
2. 2At bedtime, wash with a gentle cleanser and pat your skin dry. Do not scrub.
3. 3Follow the product directions. General guidance is a thin layer, about a pea sized amount for the face, avoiding the eyes, mouth and nose.
4. 4Begin every other night and increase frequency slowly as tolerated. Finish with a moisturizer.
5. 5During the day, use sunscreen on exposed skin, seek shade and wear protective clothing.

Who should be careful?

Do not use retinoids during pregnancy. Skin allergies, pronounced dryness, redness or inflammation are reasons to discuss alternatives with a dermatologist before starting. Irritation can trigger dark marks in darker skin, so watch for irritation rather than pushing through it. Moderate or severe acne scarring also needs a dermatologist's assessment.3

Excessive use can cause redness and peeling. Use less frequently if irritation develops, and stop if irritation is severe or persists. A dermatologist can assess persistent irritation and help decide whether a different treatment is appropriate.6