Korean skincare routine: What to use and in what order

What makes a routine Korean?

The useful principle is to replenish your skin without stripping away too much natural oil or piling on active ingredients. Products should support hydration rather than leave your face tight or dry. The familiar routine includes toner, essence and an ampoule or serum, which is a lot of vocabulary for a bathroom shelf.1

The traditional ten steps are an oil cleanser, water cleanser, exfoliant, toner, essence, targeted oil or serum or ampoule, sheet mask, eye cream, moisturizer and sunscreen. Even that version does not call for daily exfoliation or a daily sheet mask. Treat the list as optional categories, not a requirement to use every product.1

What should you use morning and night?

How to apply your routine

1. 1Wash with a gentle cleanser, then gently pat your face dry.
2. 2Apply any skin medication or treatment after cleansing. If you use a cream around your eyes, apply it with your ring finger to avoid pulling hard on the skin.
3. 3Apply moisturizer, followed by sunscreen in the morning.
4. 4Apply makeup after your skincare, if you wear it.

If your routine includes prescription skincare, keep medication in the treatment stage rather than treating it as another optional cosmetic layer. Using several products, especially multiple products aimed at signs of aging, can irritate skin. Ask a dermatologist about the order if you have questions about your treatment routine.3

Do you need to double cleanse?

Double cleansing appears in the traditional Korean routine, but a gentler starting point is one cleanse each morning and evening. Mix a small amount of cleanser with water and wash gently with your hands rather than a washcloth, which is more abrasive. Adding another wash is not automatically better cleansing.2

Limit face washing to twice daily and after sweating to reduce irritation. Cleansing removes dirt, oil and debris before your other products go on. Evening cleansing belongs before bed, whether your routine stops at moisturizer or includes a treatment.4

Which extra steps are worth adding?

A toner is optional; if you use one, apply it after cleansing in the morning. Toners can dry or irritate sensitive skin. Keep to one serum at a time rather than layering several. Eye cream is optional, so the area around your eyes does not need its own purchasing department. A moisturizer can serve that role instead. Face oils are better reserved for dry skin because their occlusive texture, which seals the skin, can contribute to acne.2

If you want exfoliation, a chemical exfoliant containing glycolic acid can remove dead skin and help even skin tone. Use it a couple of times a week rather than making exfoliation a daily requirement. Avoid rough brushes, salt or sugar scrubs and charcoal products that can irritate skin. Do not combine a vitamin C serum with alpha hydroxy acid exfoliants in the same routine; that combination can disrupt skin pH and cause problems.2

How do you choose products for your skin?

Choose products for your skin type, not simply because they belong to the same range. Dry skin feels flaky, itchy or rough; oily skin looks shiny and greasy; combination skin has both dry and oily areas. Sensitive skin can sting or burn after product use. Look for products labeled noncomedogenic, meaning they are formulated not to clog pores.4

Apply moisturizer to damp skin when you are not first applying a treatment: moisturizer traps water in the skin. Oily skin needs moisturizer too. If your skin needs more hydration, choose a more hydrating moisturizer rather than assuming you need several additional products. A gentle cleanser without microbeads is a sensible starting point because microbeads can cause irritation and inflammation.45

What sunscreen should finish the routine?

Use broad spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher on skin not covered by clothing. Reapply every two hours or after swimming or sweating. A moisturizer with sunscreen can combine two steps if it meets those requirements. Sun protection helps prevent wrinkles, age spots and skin cancer; shade and protective clothing belong alongside sunscreen.4

Daily sunscreen applies in winter too. For time outdoors at the beach or playing sport, choose SPF 50 or higher. Do not assume the SPF in makeup is enough to cover your sun protection needs.5

How do you add products without overwhelming your skin?

Introduce products slowly so you can identify what helps and what causes trouble. Patch test a new product on your inner arm before using it on your face. Take particular care with fragrance and preservatives if your skin is sensitive. Acne, rosacea and eczema require careful product selection; a Korean product can still cause an allergy or intolerance.1

Stop using a product if you develop irritation or contact dermatitis, an inflammatory skin reaction, and make an appointment with a dermatologist. Choose gentle formulas with fewer ingredients and avoid heavily fragranced products rather than adding more layers to an irritated routine.2