How to use Korean skincare

Start with the products your skin needs

Choose products for whether your skin is dry, oily or sensitive. Start with a gentle cleanser without microbeads, which can cause irritation and inflammation. Choose a moisturizer that meets your skin's hydration needs rather than buying every product in a matching range. These basics are general skincare guidance and work as the foundation of a Korean routine.1

Korean skincare emphasizes hydration and avoiding harsh cleansing or too many active ingredients. A product that leaves your face tight or dry is a poor fit for that approach.2

How do you apply the products in order?

1. 1Wash your face with a gentle cleanser, then gently pat dry.
2. 2Apply any skin medication or treatment after cleansing. A prescribed treatment belongs in this step rather than being added after your finished routine.
3. 3Apply moisturizer, followed by sunscreen in the morning.
4. 4Apply makeup after your skincare, if you wear it.

The order affects how well products work. Resist adding several treatments just because each targets a different concern: using too many products can irritate skin, especially when several are anti aging products. If you use a cream around your eyes, apply it with your ring finger to avoid pulling too hard on the delicate skin.3

What changes between morning and evening?

Serum, essence and ampoule are alternatives in this routine, so the bottle names do not get three votes.2

Apply sunscreen every day, including winter. Choose SPF 30 or higher for daily use and SPF 50 or higher when you know you will spend time outdoors, such as at the beach. Do not assume the SPF in makeup or another moisturizer is enough for your routine.1

What is the Korean skincare routine?

The familiar sequence is oil cleanser, water cleanser, exfoliant, toner, essence, targeted serum or ampoule, sheet mask, eye cream, moisturizer and sunscreen. Exfoliation is usually once or twice weekly; sheet masks are not daily. The familiar ten step routine includes optional extras, which is less exciting for a shopping basket and more useful for a routine.2

Introduce extra products slowly, rather than starting the whole sequence together. That makes it easier to identify what helps and which product causes a reaction.2

How do you test a new product?

1. 1Choose a spot about the size of a quarter on the underside of your arm or the bend of your elbow, where the product will not be rubbed or washed away.
2. 2Apply the normal amount and thickness twice daily for seven to ten days.
3. 3Leave the product on for its usual duration. For a cleanser, leave it on for five minutes or as long as its instructions say, then rinse.
4. 4If there is no redness, itching or swelling after seven to ten days, begin using the product in your routine.

What is a Korean skincare routine for sensitive skin?

Use the cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen foundation, and test additions before putting them on your face. Products formulated for your skin type can still cause irritation. Retinol and glycolic acid can irritate sensitive skin. If fragrance triggers reactions, choose products labeled "fragrance free"; "unscented" products and botanical ingredients can still contain fragrance related ingredients.4

If a product causes a reaction, gently wash it off and stop using it. A cool compress or petroleum jelly can help relieve the skin. See a dermatologist if the reaction is severe and those measures do not help, or if you cannot identify the cause. Medical patch testing can help identify an ingredient allergy.4

How do you choose and apply moisturizer?

Emollients are moisturizing treatments that form a protective film to trap moisture. Creams absorb quickly and are less greasy than ointments, making them practical for daytime use. Ointments are thicker, greasier and very moisturizing, and suit very dry skin or nighttime use. You can use different textures during the day and at night rather than expecting one texture to cover both.5

Apply an emollient after washing, as soon as you have patted skin dry. Smooth it gently into the skin rather than rubbing vigorously, following the direction of hair growth. Reapply when skin feels dry or tight. If the moisturizer comes in a tub, use a clean spoon or spatula to avoid contaminating the contents.5

If you use a steroid cream or another treatment for a skin condition, leave 20 to 30 minutes between that treatment and an emollient, and ask your doctor which goes first. This prevents diluting the treatment or spreading it onto areas that do not need it. Seek advice from a doctor, nurse or pharmacist for persistent burning or stinging, inflamed hair follicles or a worsening facial rash after an emollient.5

How does Korean skincare compare with American skincare?

Korean skincare tends to emphasize hydrating formulas, gentler alternatives to strong active ingredients and ingredients such as Centella asiatica that are less common in Western products. Korean brands also tend to be more affordable than American counterparts. Choose for your skin's needs, rather than treating the country of origin as a reason to replace products that already suit you.2