Can skincare expire?

Why skincare expires

Using a product can introduce bacteria and fungi, especially when fingers go into a jar; preservatives that help control them can break down over time. Creams and lotions can be prone to microbial contamination, and a mixture of oil and water can separate. Heat, sunlight, air and moisture can change a product's color, texture or smell, and some formulas can dry out, harden or crack.12

Shelf life means the period a product is expected to look and act as expected and remain safe to use. It varies with the product, how you handle it and where you store it, so one expiry date cannot fit every jar on the shelf.1

Do all skincare products have an expiration date?

Not necessarily. In the United States, ordinary cosmetics do not have to show an expiration date or a specific shelf life, so a face cream may not have a printed date. That does not mean it lasts forever: a cosmetic's maker is responsible for determining its shelf life.1

Some products use a Period After Opening symbol: an open jar with a number and the letter M, showing how many months the product should last after opening. A 6m mark means six months after opening. US cosmetic labels are not required to include this symbol, so check the package for it rather than assuming it will be there. An open jar marked 6m is a tiny calendar wearing a lid.34

Writing the opening date on the lid is not glamorous, but it is better than asking your memory to identify when the cream moved in. Marking the date can help you keep track of a product's age.5

Eye makeup tends to have a shorter shelf life than other cosmetics. Manufacturers usually recommend discarding mascara two to four months after purchase because the wand is exposed to bacteria and fungi each time it is used. If you get an eye infection, throw away the eye makeup you were using when it happened.15

Sunscreen has its own expiration rules

In the United States, sunscreen and acne treatments are drugs, and a moisturizer with SPF is regulated as both a cosmetic and a drug. Drug products must have printed expiration dates, and manufacturers must keep them safe and effective until those dates. The FDA requires sunscreen to maintain its original strength for three years. Replace sunscreen when it expires because its active ingredients can break down and stop protecting your skin.13

Sunscreen labels differ by market. In the UK, an open jar symbol with an M and a number indicates how many months the sunscreen lasts after opening. In the United States, follow the printed expiration date on the sunscreen container.6

How to store skincare

• Read the label and follow its directions and warnings.
• Wash your hands before use, and keep containers clean and tightly closed between uses.
• Store products in a dry place at room temperature and out of direct sunlight; do not leave them in a hot car.
• Keep makeup to yourself and use clean brushes, sponges and applicators.

How to tell if skincare has gone bad

Check the printed expiration date first, especially on sunscreen. For products without a date, changes in appearance or smell are reasons to stop using them; a normal appearance does not replace the product's opening symbol or label directions.15

• The color changes or the product develops a bad or unusual smell.
• A cream separates into layers, or the formula becomes unusually dry, hard, cracked or runny.
• A sunscreen changes color or smell, separates, or becomes dry and flaky.
• A mineral sunscreen becomes gritty, or a chemical sunscreen turns yellow or watery and no longer spreads well.

If a cosmetic causes a rash, redness, a burn or another unexpected reaction, stop using it and contact a healthcare provider about what to do.5