What makes Korean skincare different?

What is actually different?

The guiding idea is to replenish skin rather than strip away its natural oils. Korean skincare tends to favor hydrating formulas, little or no added fragrance and gentler approaches to active ingredients. It has also popularized essences, ampoules and ingredients such as snail mucin and Centella asiatica among Western shoppers. These are tendencies, not a description of every Korean product.1

Sunscreen is another point of difference: countries have different approval systems, which affects the sunscreen ingredients available to manufacturers. Korean skincare also treats sun protection as a routine essential rather than an optional extra.1

Do you need all ten steps?

No. The familiar sequence includes two cleansers, exfoliation, toner, essence, a targeted serum or ampoule, a sheet mask, eye cream, moisturizer and sunscreen. Adding everything at once makes it harder to identify what helps or irritates. You can adopt the gentle, hydrating approach with the basic sequence below.1

1. 1Cleanse gently. Use an alcohol free, nonabrasive cleanser, lukewarm water and your fingertips. Avoid scrubbing, rinse and pat dry with a soft towel. Wash morning and night, and after heavy sweating.
2. 2Apply moisturizer to damp skin to help trap water. Moisturize even if your skin is oily.
3. 3Finish your morning routine with broad spectrum sunscreen rated SPF 30 or higher. Cover exposed skin and reapply every two hours or after swimming or sweating.

Limiting the number of products also reduces costs and the risk of irritation.3

What does cica add?

Centella asiatica, also called cica, is common in Korean skincare. It helps the skin barrier, the protective outer layer, retain moisture and reduces inflammation. A cream, lotion or serum that stays on the skin is a practical way to use it. Evidence for reducing signs of sun related aging is still preliminary; hydration is a clearer reason to choose it than wrinkle correction.4

Who should be careful?

Introduce new products slowly, especially with sensitive skin, acne, rosacea or eczema. Test a new product on your inner arm before using it on your face. A product that leaves skin tight or dry is a poor fit for the hydrating approach.1

For cica, wait at least 24 hours after the spot test. Burning or an itchy rash can signal an allergic reaction: stop using the product and seek medical advice. Ask a dermatology clinician before using cica if you are pregnant, breastfeeding, under 18, or have a history of liver problems or skin cancer.4