Is fragrance in skincare bad for you?

What does fragrance do in skincare?

Fragrance gives a product a pleasant smell or disguises the smell of other ingredients, because apparently the formula needs a public relations department. Fragrance formulas can contain mixtures of natural and synthetic chemicals, rather than a single ingredient. You will find them in moisturisers, cleansers, body lotions and other personal care products, which gives the bathroom plenty of opportunities to audition as a perfume counter. A product does not have to smell noticeably perfumed to contain fragrance: manufacturers sometimes use just enough to mask an unwanted odour.13

Cosmetic fragrance ingredients must meet the same US safety requirements as other cosmetic ingredients, although they do not need FDA approval before sale. An ingredient that is safe for most people can still cause a reaction in someone who is sensitive to it. Diethyl phthalate, or DEP, is a phthalate commonly used in fragrances; it has no known human health risks at its current uses in cosmetics and fragrances.1

What is the difference between irritation and allergy?

Contact dermatitis means skin inflammation caused by contact with an irritant or allergen. Burning, itching or a rash alone cannot tell you which type you have. Fragrance is a common cause of cosmetic contact dermatitis, but preservatives and other ingredients can also cause reactions. Removing fragrance will not solve a reaction to a different ingredient.25

Who should be more careful?

People with atopic eczema have an increased risk of irritant contact dermatitis. Fragrance allergy, however, can occur with or without a history of eczema. Anyone exposed to fragranced products can become sensitised over time. If you already know you are allergic to fragrance, avoid fragranced products rather than trying to find a smaller amount your skin will tolerate.34

A cosmetic allergy can develop after years of using a product without problems. Earlier trouble free use does not rule out that product as the cause of a new rash. Include established products, not just recent purchases, when thinking about what touches the affected area.5

What does a reaction look like?

Stop using a suspected product if you develop symptoms such as:

• Itching, burning, stinging or tenderness.
• A discoloured, swollen or hot rash.
• Very dry, flaky or cracked skin.
• Hives, blisters, or oozing areas that develop crusts.

Itching or burning can start before a visible rash. Redness can be less obvious on darker skin, so pay attention to swelling, discomfort and changes in texture too. Continued contact with the trigger can lead to thickened, scaly skin and deep cracks. These symptoms need attention, not continued exposure to see whether the product settles down.56

Can fragrance in a cleanser cause a reaction?

Yes. A product does not have to stay on your skin for hours to cause contact dermatitis. Facial cleanser and shampoo that briefly touches the skin can trigger a reaction, including around the eyes, where skin is thin and delicate. If you suspect shampoo or conditioner, keep the rinse water from running over your face. Consider everything that reaches the area, not only the cream you apply there.26

Fragrance free vs unscented

An "unscented" label describes the smell, not necessarily the fragrance content, which is a lot of ambiguity for one word. In the US, a fragrance mixture can appear simply as "fragrance" or "perfume" without naming its individual components, which is more of a collective pseudonym than a guest list. Check the full ingredient list, and contact the manufacturer if you need to know whether a particular allergen is present.7

Is natural fragrance safer?

Natural origin does not rule out fragrance allergy. Both natural extracts and synthetic fragrance chemicals can be contact allergens. Essential oils are not an automatic alternative for someone avoiding fragrance. If you have a fragrance allergy, examine products described as botanical, herbal or natural too: those descriptions can conceal fragrance ingredients rather than identify them clearly.3

What should you do if you suspect fragrance?

1. 1Stop the skincare product you suspect is causing the reaction.
2. 2Think about everything that touches the affected area, including cleansers, moisturisers, makeup and hair products.
3. 3Choose fragrance free replacements and check their ingredient lists for allergens you already know about.
4. 4Watch whether the rash clears after avoiding the suspected product. Improvement helps identify a possible cause, but does not identify the exact ingredient.
5. 5See a dermatologist if you cannot find the trigger or the rash keeps returning. Bring the product names and explain where and when symptoms appear.

Can you test a new product first?

For a new product intended to stay on the skin, an open application test uses a dot on the same spot of the forearm or inner upper arm twice daily for two weeks. Stop if a rash develops. Do not leave an undiluted cleanser on the skin as a homemade patch test; products intended to be washed off can irritate when left there. Formal patch testing with a clinician helps confirm fragrance allergy.3

When should you get medical help?

Consult a healthcare professional for a suspected allergic reaction, especially if symptoms persist or recur. Fragrance can also trigger coughing, wheezing, nasal symptoms or chest tightness in sensitive people, particularly those with asthma or allergic rhinitis. Seek immediate medical attention for trouble breathing or swallowing, faintness or collapse. These can be signs of anaphylaxis, a severe allergic reaction.7