Lanolin in skin care: what it does and how to use it

What is lanolin?

Sheep's skin glands produce the fatty substance that coats their wool. Lanolin is recovered by washing the wool, then purified for use in skin care. It is an animal derived ingredient, so it is not suitable for a vegan routine. The sheep connection is literal, not a branding exercise.1

What does lanolin do for skin?

Lanolin works as an emollient, an ingredient that softens and smooths skin. It also acts as an occlusive, forming a coating that limits moisture loss. That coating helps retain water already in the skin rather than adding water itself. Humectants, such as glycerin, attract and bind water instead.34

On intact skin without inflammation, lanolin lubricates the surface, supports the skin's fatty barrier and maintains moisture. Skin condition matters: the same person can tolerate lanolin on healthy skin but react when applying it to damaged skin. Previous trouble free use is therefore not a reason to keep applying a product to an area that is getting worse.1

Which lanolin product should you choose?

Choose the finished formula for the area and degree of dryness, rather than choosing by lanolin alone. Moisturizers combine ingredients with different jobs, so the ingredient list is not a one person department.3

How do you apply a lanolin moisturizer?

These are general moisturizer directions, not a dose for every lanolin formula. Check whether the product contains medicine, such as hydrocortisone, before treating it as an ordinary moisturizer.4

1. 1Wash with warm rather than hot water and a gentle cleanser.
2. 2Rinse well and gently pat dry, leaving the skin damp.
3. 3Apply the moisturizer to dry areas, ideally within three minutes of leaving the bath or shower.
4. 4Spread it gently rather than rubbing the skin hard.
5. 5Reapply during the day when the skin feels dry.

Slightly dry skin can need only a light moisturizer at night; very dry skin can need a greasy moisturizer every couple of hours. Moisturizers have their greatest therapeutic effect in the first six hours after application, and two to three applications a day can help maximize benefit. Application immediately after bathing helps retain water in the skin.3

If you use a prescription cream or another active product, follow your prescriber's layering instructions. Some medicines need to go on before the emollient. Do not assume that a lanolin containing medicated cream follows the same directions as a plain moisturizer.4

How long does it take to help dry skin?

Mild dry skin can clear within a few days of moisturizer treatment. That is a general moisturizer timeline, not a deadline for lanolin. Regular use helps minimize a return of dryness; more severe dryness associated with eczema can require longer treatment and prescription care.5

Dry skin can become rough and scaly as its outer layer loses flexibility. More pronounced dryness can bring superficial cracks, itching and stinging. Cold weather, dry climates, repeated washing and detergents can worsen moisture loss. A moisturizer helps address dryness, but repeated exposure to those triggers can keep the problem going. The moisturizer is doing maintenance, not cancelling winter.5

How should you test a new product?

1. 1Choose a spot about the size of a quarter on the underside of your arm or bend of your elbow.
2. 2Apply your usual amount and thickness twice daily for seven to 10 days.
3. 3Leave the product on for its normal duration. For a cleanser, use five minutes or the time specified in its directions.
4. 4If no redness, itching or swelling develops, introduce the product into your routine.

Introduce only one new product at a time so a reaction is easier to trace. If the test area reacts, gently wash the product off and do not use it again. A cool compress or petroleum jelly can help relieve the skin. Get dermatology advice if the reaction is severe or these measures do not help.46

Who should be careful with lanolin?

People with eczema, broken skin or wounds appear to have a higher risk of developing lanolin allergy. Irritant reactions are more common than allergic reactions. Allergy can develop after earlier use without problems, and a delayed allergic reaction typically appears 48 to 72 hours after exposure. Look for itching, swelling, blistering or a rash where the product touched the skin.2

Acne prone skin needs a different caution: occlusive moisturizers can cause or aggravate breakouts and folliculitis, inflammation around hair follicles. Do not assume that a rich lanolin formula will suit an acne prone face simply because it helps dry skin.3

What if a lip product makes dryness worse?

An itchy, painful rash around the lips, with dry, flaky or splitting lips, can be contact dermatitis, a skin reaction to something touching it. Lip balm, gloss and lipstick are possible triggers. More balm is not the right response if the balm itself is causing the reaction.7

Stop lip products while investigating the rash. Once it clears, adding back one product a week can help identify the trigger; a rash returning within seven days points to that product. A reaction to a lanolin containing formula does not automatically identify lanolin as the culprit: fragrance or another ingredient can also cause contact dermatitis.7

What if you have a lanolin allergy?

A dermatologist can investigate suspected lanolin allergy with medical patch testing, sometimes including your own product. Testing can be complicated because lanolin's composition varies. Once lanolin is identified as the allergen, avoiding it is the main way to prevent further reactions.2

Check labels for lanolin and these related names:

• Lanolin alcohol or wool alcohols.
• Anhydrous lanolin.
• Wool fat, wool wax or wool grease.
• Amerchol.
• Alcoholes lanae or adeps lanae anhydrous.

Check more than moisturizers: lanolin also appears in cosmetics, sunscreens, cleansers and some medicated creams. Symptoms usually settle once the offending ingredient is avoided. Continued exposure can keep the dermatitis active.2

When should you get medical help?

Contact a clinician for persistent irritation, itching, rash or wounds that do not heal. Seek urgent medical care for a rash with fever, widespread blistering, rapid spread, red streaks, yellow or green discharge, pain or warmth.4