Combination skin: what it is and how to care for it

What is combination skin?

The usual pattern is an oily T zone, meaning your forehead, nose and chin, with drier cheeks. Some people have the reverse pattern: a dry center and oilier cheeks. Combination skin describes the mix, not a compulsory seating plan for oil.2

Combination skin is a skin type, not a skin condition. Genetics and hormones help determine it. Sebum, the natural oil made by your skin's oil glands, helps keep skin hydrated; those glands are more concentrated around the forehead, nose and chin. Weather, stress and harsh skincare can also affect how oily or dry different areas become.3

What are the characteristics of combination skin?

Look for a contrast between areas rather than one symptom across your whole face.

• Oily areas look shiny or greasy, often becoming oilier during the day.
• Pores can look larger around the nose, with blackheads or breakouts concentrated there.
• Dry areas can look flaky, rough or dull and feel tight or itchy.
• Cheeks and the jawline are common dry areas, but the pattern does not have to be symmetrical or follow the usual T zone.

How can you check your skin type?

1. 1Wash your face gently and pat it dry.
2. 2Leave your skin without skincare products for about 30 minutes.
3. 3Look at your forehead, nose, chin and cheeks, and notice how each area feels.
4. 4If some areas feel dry while others look or feel oily, the pattern suggests combination skin.

Blotting paper can help show where oil collects, but you do not need it to notice the difference. There is no universal skin type test. Redness, burning, itching or stinging can indicate sensitivity, which can exist alongside combination skin.2

What should you use for combination skin?

Start with a gentle cleanser, a lightweight moisturizer and daytime sunscreen. Look for formulas suitable for combination skin, with oil free or noncomedogenic options for areas prone to clogged pores. Noncomedogenic means designed not to clog pores. The essential routine does not require a toner, serum and separate eye cream, despite the bathroom shelf's apparent ambitions.12

Does every area need the same moisturizer?

No. Moisturize dry patches, and use a lighter texture or skip moisturizer on oily areas that do not need it. Oiliness does not automatically mean an area should never receive moisture: the decision is whether that area also feels dry. Different areas can need different products, which is inconvenient for bottles that would prefer to be the entire routine.234

Moisturizers work in several ways. Humectants, such as glycerine, attract and retain water. Emollients soften and smooth the skin's outer layer. Occlusive ingredients, such as dimethicone or petroleum jelly, reduce water loss. A very occlusive formula can aggravate acne, so reserve heavier textures for areas that actually need them.5

How to build your morning and evening routine

1. 1Cleanse when you wake up and before bed. Wet your face with lukewarm water, gently massage a mild cleanser with your fingertips, rinse thoroughly and pat dry. Wash after sweating, too.
2. 2Apply any targeted product after cleansing. Keep products intended for oily areas on those areas rather than spreading them over dry cheeks.
3. 3Moisturize the dry areas while the skin is still damp. Use the texture each area needs, and reapply to dry patches when necessary.
4. 4In the morning, finish with broad spectrum, water resistant sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher before going outdoors. At night, finish with moisturizer.

A moisturizer containing broad spectrum SPF 30 can combine the final daytime steps. Reapply as directed to maintain protection. Sunscreen belongs on both oily and dry areas; also use shade and protective clothing rather than relying on sunscreen alone.14

Do you need double cleansing or exfoliation?

Double cleansing is an evening option: use an oil based cleanser first, followed by a gentle water based cleanser. Your regular cleanser can also be used for the evening wash. Cleansing removes makeup, sunscreen, dirt and excess oil; washing more aggressively can leave skin excessively dry by removing its surface oil and increasing water loss.17

Do not scrub dry or peeling patches to make them smooth. Moisturize them instead. Scrubbing irritates skin and can worsen acne. Acne cleansers also need caution if you already use an acne product that stays on your skin, because combining treatments can cause excessive dryness and irritation.467

What if your combination skin is sensitive?

Choose fragrance free products and avoid dyes and harsh ingredients. Salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide can irritate sensitive skin, so an oily patch is not automatically a reason to add them. Avoid drying soaps and hot water, which can worsen dryness and disturb the skin's moisture barrier.23

Can combination skin change?

Yes. Skin can become oilier in summer and drier in winter, so adjust moisturizer texture to the season rather than keeping the same amount everywhere. Age, hormonal changes during puberty, pregnancy or breastfeeding, and some medicines can also affect skin type. When combination skin is genetic, skincare manages the oily and dry areas rather than permanently replacing your skin type.123

When should you stop a product or see a dermatologist?

Stop a moisturizer that causes a new itchy rash or dermatitis, meaning inflamed skin. If gentle cleansing and regular moisturizing do not help, or dryness becomes painful, cracked, bleeding, stinging or very irritating, make an appointment with a dermatologist. A dermatologist can also help if you cannot identify your skin type or need treatment beyond basic skincare.245