Moisturizer versus moisturiser

Is an emollient the same as a moisturizer?

In everyday medical advice, emollient often means moisturizer. More precisely, an emollient can also be an ingredient that softens and smooths skin. Moisturizers can combine emollients with humectants, which attract and retain water, and occlusives, which form a protective layer to slow water loss. These are different jobs within a formula, not competing spellings. Moisturizers help reduce dryness and support the skin's protective barrier.234

The useful comparison is gel, lotion, cream or ointment

A gel and an ointment can both be moisturizers, which makes the category name less informative than its confident position on the packaging. Choose the texture by how dry your skin is, where you will apply it and what feels comfortable enough to use regularly.13

Which should you choose for your skin?

For dry skin, start with a cream or ointment rather than a lotion. For combination skin, apply moisturizer to dry areas rather than automatically covering oily areas too. Choose fragrance free products for dry or sensitive skin. Unscented is not the same claim: a product can contain ingredients that hide other smells and still irritate sensitive skin. Glycerin, hyaluronic acid, dimethicone and petrolatum are among the ingredients used in products for dry skin. Neither spelling tells you which ingredients a particular jar contains.16

How do you apply moisturizer?

1. 1Wash your hands before applying the product.
2. 2If the moisturizer comes in a tub, take it out with a clean spoon or spatula rather than your fingers. A pump can dispense directly onto clean hands.
3. 3After washing or bathing, gently pat your skin with a towel and apply moisturizer immediately, while skin is still damp.
4. 4For an emollient cream or ointment, smooth a thin layer onto the skin in the direction of hair growth rather than rubbing vigorously.
5. 5Reapply when your skin feels dry. Keep the product somewhere convenient so application is practical, including after handwashing.

Frequency depends on dryness. Slightly dry skin may only need a light moisturizer at night; very dry skin can need a greasier product every couple of hours. A cream during the day and an ointment overnight can be a useful combination. Moisturizing benefits are greatest during the first six hours after application, so regular reapplication matters more than choosing one spelling over the other. Leave on moisturizers stay on the skin; they do not need rinsing off.23

When should you stop or get advice?

Stop using an emollient that makes your skin itchy or sore, and ask a pharmacist or clinician for advice. See a dermatologist if dryness persists despite moisturizing or becomes painful, cracked, bleeding or very irritating. If you use a topical steroid, leave at least 30 minutes between the steroid and the emollient, and ask your clinician which to apply first. Ask for specific directions during ultraviolet light treatment or radiotherapy.1345

Keep emollients and fabrics carrying their residue away from flames and cigarettes, including when the product contains no paraffin. Moisturizing products can also make baths and showers slippery. Moisturizing does not replace sun protection: use broad spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher as part of your daily routine.145