Oily dehydrated skin: what helps?

How can skin be oily and dry?

Oily skin comes from sebaceous glands, the glands that produce skin oil. Dryness involves a shortage of moisture in the outer skin layer and problems with its protective barrier. Oil and moisture are different jobs, even if skincare packaging would prefer to sell them as one crisis.12

Combination skin is a different pattern: some areas are dry while others are oily, often across the forehead, nose and chin. That pattern calls for different amounts of moisturizer in different places, not necessarily a richer product across the whole face. Roughness, scaling and cracking are signs of dryness; shine alone does not tell you how much moisture the outer layer holds.13

What makes the dryness worse?

Genes and hormones play a key role in oil production. Diet probably has little effect on whether your skin is oily. Dryness has a separate set of triggers, including low humidity, excessive air conditioning, direct heat, excessive bathing, soap, alcohol in topical products and abrasive friction. Certain medicines, including oral retinoids, can also contribute.12

Frequent washing can cause irritation and increased oil production. If cleansing leaves your skin uncomfortable, change the washing routine rather than adding more washes. Everyday soap can dry skin out, so a soapless cleanser or suitable soap substitute is a better starting point when dryness is part of the problem.24

How should you care for it?

1. 1Wash with lukewarm water and a gentle, fragrance free cleanser. Avoid hot water and prolonged soaking.
2. 2Pat your skin dry without rubbing. Apply moisturizer promptly after washing, while the skin is still slightly damp, to help retain water.
3. 3Start with a light gel on dry areas. Smooth moisturizing treatments gently over the skin rather than rubbing them in vigorously.
4. 4Include broad spectrum SPF 30 or higher sunscreen in your daytime routine. For time outdoors, choose water resistance and reapply every two hours.

For excessively dry skin, choose a moisturizer you can comfortably use at least twice daily. Reapply moisturizing treatments when the affected areas feel dry or tight, but adjust the amount and texture if a rich product causes clogged pores. The frequent application used for very dry skin does not mean every oily area needs the same treatment.34

Which moisturizer texture should you choose?

Moisturizer adds moisture and helps prevent water from leaving the skin. The word covers gels, lotions, creams and ointments, which is rather a lot of different products hiding behind one respectable noun.3

Ceramides and hyaluronic acid are useful moisturizing ingredients to look for. Choose a fragrance free formula and look for a noncomedogenic label, meaning the product is intended not to block pores. For oily skin, water based or oil free cosmetics are also sensible choices.23

Choose products formulated for oily skin, or sensitive skin if sensitivity is also a concern. Introduce new products cautiously rather than starting several antiaging treatments together, which can irritate skin. Effective antiaging skincare comes in different price ranges, even if some jars look qualified to chair a board meeting.5

Should you exfoliate the flakes?

Do not try to exfoliate dry, peeling skin into smoothness. Exfoliation can strip away more moisture; moisturize the dry areas instead. Avoid introducing products containing alcohol, alpha hydroxy acid or fragrance while addressing dryness. If moisturizer feels inadequate, reconsider its texture and the drying steps in your routine before adding another treatment.3

What should improvement look like?

Look for less roughness, scaling and itching in the dry areas, rather than judging success only by whether your face looks matte. Moisturizers help the barrier function and reduce water loss. Dryness can improve when contributing factors are controlled, although a tendency to dry skin can persist. If excess oil remains troublesome, a clinician can discuss treatments that absorb oil or limit its production.12

What if you use prescription skin treatments?

If you use a steroid cream or another treatment for a skin condition, leave 20 to 30 minutes between that treatment and an emollient, a moisturizing treatment that traps moisture. Ask your doctor which to apply first. Separating them avoids diluting the treatment or spreading it onto areas that do not need it.4

When should you get help?

Redness, cracking, itching, stinging or a rash can signal excessive dryness. See a dermatologist if gentler cleansing and moisturizing do not help, or if skin becomes painful, bleeds or stays very irritated. Burning or stinging that persists with an emollient, inflamed follicles or a facial rash also warrants advice from a pharmacist or clinician.34

Use a clean spoon or spatula to take emollient from a tub. Keep clothing and bedding carrying emollient residue away from flames and cigarettes: both paraffin based and paraffin free products can make these fabrics catch fire easily.4