Panthenol for dry skin: what it does and how to use it

What does panthenol do for dry skin?

Panthenol is provitamin B5 and acts as a humectant, an ingredient that helps hold water in the skin. It also has soothing properties and supports repair of the skin's outer layer. Dry skin involves reduced hydration and a weakened barrier, which lets more water escape. The result can be roughness, scaling, tightness and itching. Panthenol addresses moisture retention, while an emollient, another word for moisturizer, provides a protective coating that reduces water loss.23

What percentage should you choose?

Formulas containing 1% or 5% panthenol reduced water loss after 30 days of daily use on healthy forearms. Testing included formulas with no added panthenol and with 0.5%, 1% or 5%. These results make 1% a reasonable concentration to consider, rather than treating 5% as a requirement. There is no established best percentage for every dry skin product, or a clear reason to choose 5% over 1% solely because the number is larger.1

How long does panthenol take to work?

Some effects can appear within hours, while improvements in moisture retention also develop with regular use. After washing with a detergent called sodium laureth sulphate, tested panthenol formulas reduced water loss within two hours compared with the base formula and control. For ongoing use, the clearer results for 1% and 5% formulas were measured after 30 days. Immediate softness and longer term barrier support are different things, so judge comfort after application and dryness over several weeks.1

A 28 day trial in 35 adults with dry, sensitive legs tested a moisturizer containing panthenol, niacinamide and dipotassium glycyrrhizate. Participants applied it twice daily to one lower leg and left the other untreated. Hydration improved at the measured time points, including 30 minutes, and dryness and itching improved. At day 28, surface hydration was 74.1% higher than baseline and water loss was 13.5% lower. Those are results for the combined moisturizer, not an expected percentage improvement from panthenol alone. The adults started with relatively mild clinical symptoms, so severe dryness needs a separate assessment.2

Which moisturizer texture makes sense?

Choose the base texture for how dry the area is and what you will use consistently. Greasier preparations generally give the strongest moisturizing effect; a less oily formula can be more practical for the face or daytime. Use the least expensive moisturizer that works and feels acceptable, because dry skin does not require a luxury procurement department.4

A greasy ointment can be useful at home, where skincare does not need to pass a workplace dress code.3

How to use a panthenol moisturizer

The following steps are general moisturizer guidance, rather than directions for a particular panthenol product. For dry or eczema prone skin, use fragrance free cleansers and moisturizers. Keep showers lukewarm and brief, about 5 to 10 minutes, rather than washing repeatedly throughout the day. Clean areas that need it without automatically soaping the entire body.6

1. 1Wash your hands before handling the moisturizer.
2. 2After washing or bathing, gently pat the skin with a towel and apply moisturizer while the skin is still damp.
3. 3For a tub, take out moisturizer with a clean spoon or spatula. A pump can dispense directly onto clean hands.
4. 4Smooth a thin, shiny layer over the dry areas in the direction of hair growth. Do not rub vigorously.
5. 5Leave the moisturizer on the skin rather than washing it off, and allow about 10 minutes for it to soak in.

Apply moisturizer whenever the skin feels dry, often 2 to 4 times daily or more if needed. A morning cream and a richer evening ointment are options. Moisturizer effects are short lived, so frequent application matters more than expecting one application to last indefinitely. Cold weather can increase the need to reapply.45

Can sensitive or eczema prone skin use panthenol?

Panthenol is used in products for sensitive and damaged skin, but a soothing ingredient can still cause a reaction. Allergy to vitamin B5 compounds is considered rare, and contact allergy can be difficult to identify. Repeated exposure on damaged skin appears to increase the risk of hypersensitivity. A "hypoallergenic" label does not rule out a reaction.7

Stop using a moisturizer that makes the skin itchy or sore, and seek medical advice if it causes irritation. The culprit can be another ingredient in the formula, so changing the whole product can be more useful than assuming panthenol is responsible. If reactions keep returning, a clinician can assess contact allergy and arrange patch testing. Persistent eczema symptoms despite moisturizing warrant a dermatologist's treatment plan.4567

What about prescriptions, pregnancy and sunscreen?

• If you use a prescribed topical corticosteroid, separate it from moisturizer by at least 30 minutes. Applying them together can dilute the treatment.
• Pregnancy and breastfeeding were excluded from the 28 day combination moisturizer trial. Pregnancy specific safety is not settled by those results.
• For ultraviolet light treatment or radiotherapy, ask your treatment team about moisturizer use before starting.
• A panthenol moisturizer is not a substitute for sunscreen. Use sunscreen for sun exposure unless your product has its own stated sun protection.
• If an emollient contains paraffin, avoid smoking and naked flames while it is on your skin, clothing or dressings. Moisturizers can also make baths and showers slippery.