What should a hydrating product actually do?
These are general recommendations for skin lacking moisture, rather than a separate diagnosis based on the word "dehydrated." Dry skin lacks moisture in its outer layer, called the stratum corneum, and has a reduced ability to hold water. Moisturizers are the main treatment: they improve the skin's protective barrier and reduce water escaping through its surface. Choose by the severity of dryness, how well you tolerate the product, its availability and its cost.3
Which ingredients are worth looking for?
- Humectants attract and retain water in the outer skin layer. Glycerin and urea are examples.
- Occlusives form a protective layer that reduces water evaporation. Examples include petroleum jelly, mineral oil and dimethicone.
- Emollient ingredients soften and smooth skin by filling cracks in its outer layer.
- Ceramides help hydrate skin, and hyaluronic acid is another moisturizing ingredient to look for.
Urea and acidic preparations can sting scratched or cracked skin. Although some acids act as humectants, they also have a peeling effect; an exfoliating acid is not the best starting point for dry, peeling skin. Moisturizers can soften the appearance of fine lines, which is a smaller assignment than the marketing sometimes gives them.24
Should you choose a gel, lotion, cream or ointment?
| Texture | Main difference | When to consider it |
|---|---|---|
| Gel | Often water based and lighter than lotion. | Oily areas where heavier moisturizer feels excessive. |
| Lotion | Thin, easy to spread and less moisturizing than cream. | Mild seasonal dryness or hairy areas. |
| Cream | Thicker and more hydrating than lotion, but less greasy than ointment. | Dry skin and daytime use. |
| Ointment | The thickest, greasiest option, with strong moisture trapping effects. | Very dry or thickened areas and overnight use. |
You can use a cream in the morning and an ointment overnight rather than expecting one texture to suit every situation. For combination skin, moisturize the dry patches rather than automatically applying a rich cream across oily areas. Heavy, occlusive products can aggravate acne or inflamed hair follicles.246
Which cleanser should you use?
Choose a gentle cleanser or a moisturizing soap substitute. Ordinary soaps and shower gels can dry skin out. Some emollient products can replace soap, but white soft paraffin is not suitable as an emollient cleanser. Use a product intended for washing rather than assuming every moisturizer belongs in the shower. A cleanser does not need to foam to clean skin, despite the impressive career foam has made of looking busy.56
How do you use the products?
- 1Wash gently with warm rather than hot water. Keep baths and showers to five to ten minutes, and avoid scrubbing.
- 2Pat skin with a clean towel instead of rubbing it. Apply moisturizer promptly while skin is still damp to help trap water.
- 3Wash your hands before applying an emollient. If the product comes in a tub, use a clean spoon to remove it rather than dipping your fingers into the container.
- 4Smooth the emollient gently in the direction of hair growth. Leave a thin layer to soak in for about ten minutes.
- 5Include broad spectrum SPF 30 or higher sunscreen in your daytime routine, alongside shade and protective clothing.
How often should you moisturize?
For dry skin, apply moisturizer two to three times a day or whenever needed, especially after washing. Slight dryness can need only a light moisturizer at night; very dry skin can need a greasy moisturizer every couple of hours. Adjust the frequency to the dryness rather than treating a morning application as the entire day's allowance. Keep a small tube available if you need to reapply away from home.457
Moisturizer benefits are greatest during the first six hours after application, so regular reapplication matters. Dryness can improve once contributing factors are controlled, but a tendency to dry skin can persist. Long, hot showers, frequent washing, dry indoor air and certain medicines can all contribute. A richer product cannot compensate for every ongoing trigger, so change harsh washing habits alongside the moisturizer.347
What should you leave out while skin is dry?
Choose products labeled "fragrance free." "Unscented" products can contain ingredients that hide odors and irritate dry, sensitive skin. Avoid exfoliating dry, peeling patches; moisturize them instead. Set aside cosmetic retinoids and alcohol containing skincare while addressing dryness. If a retinoid is prescribed, ask the prescriber how to adjust its use. "Natural" or "organic" does not mean a product cannot cause an allergy.12
For dry lips, petroleum jelly or a comfortable lip balm is an option; switch products if a balm stings or tingles. Aqueous cream is no longer recommended as a moisturizer because sodium lauryl sulphate in it can cause irritation. Ask a dermatologist before adding an anti itch cream to extremely dry skin, since some ingredients can worsen the irritation.15
Can you use moisturizer with prescription creams?
If you use a topical corticosteroid, meaning a steroid applied to skin, leave at least 30 minutes between the steroid and your emollient. Ask your clinician which to apply first. Separating them avoids diluting the treatment or spreading it onto areas that do not need it. People having ultraviolet light treatment or radiotherapy need specific advice about emollient use from their treatment team.56
When should you stop or get medical help?
Stop an emollient that makes skin itchy or sore, and get advice about persistent burning, stinging, a new rash or inflamed hair follicles. Seek medical help if dryness becomes painful, cracked or bleeding, disrupts sleep, leaves open sores from scratching, or does not improve with home care. Persistent dryness can need treatment beyond a moisturizer. Keep emollient contaminated clothing and bedding away from flames and cigarettes, including when the product contains no paraffin. Washing does not remove the fire risk completely.2567
Where this answer comes from
- 1Dermatologists' top tips for relieving dry skinaad.org
- 2How to pick the right moisturizer for your skinaad.org
- 3Dry Skin (Xeroderma): Causes, Treatments, and Moredermnetnz.org
- 4Emollients and Moisturizers (Moisturisers)dermnetnz.org
- 5Emollientsnhs.uk
- 6Emollients and how to use them - Overviewguysandstthomas.nhs.uk
- 7Dry skin - self-care: MedlinePlus Medical Encyclopediamedlineplus.gov