Retinol cream vs gel: which should you choose?

What actually changes between cream and gel?

Retinol is one member of the retinoid family, a group of vitamin A based ingredients. Adapalene and tretinoin are different retinoids, not alternative names for retinol. Cream and gel describe the format, not two rival departments of skincare.2

Choose a cream if minimising irritation is your priority. Choose a gel if you prefer a less visible finish. Gels are less cosmetically noticeable on the skin, so the formula can get on with its work without auditioning for a visible role. Neither texture is a reason to skip moisturizer.1

Is gel stronger than cream?

Do not use the word gel as a shortcut for stronger. Concentration affects the effectiveness of individual acne retinoids: adapalene gel at 0.3% has shown greater effectiveness than adapalene gel at 0.1%. That comparison concerns the same ingredient, not retinol versus adapalene. For a first retinol product, start with the lowest strength you can find. Cosmetic retinol percentages are not always disclosed on the packaging, so the label will not always give you a complete strength comparison.23

How do you use either format?

For cosmetic retinol, follow these general steps unless the package gives different directions. For prescribed retinoids, follow your prescriber's instructions.

1. 1Test a little product on a small area first. Wait a couple of days; do not proceed if the area becomes very red or itchy.
2. 2At bedtime, wash with a gentle cleanser and pat your skin dry. Do not scrub.
3. 3Apply a thin layer across your face, using about a pea sized amount. Keep it away from your eyes, mouth and nose.
4. 4Start every other night for the first couple of weeks rather than immediately using it nightly.
5. 5Finish with a noncomedogenic moisturizer, meaning one formulated not to clog pores.
6. 6Use sunscreen during the day, seek shade and cover exposed skin with protective clothing.

How long until you see a difference?

Retinol takes several weeks to produce visible improvement, and changes in wrinkles usually take several months. Acne can initially look worse. With topical acne retinoids such as adapalene or tretinoin, improvement can take 12 weeks or longer. Do not judge either format after a few applications.15

Who should be careful?

A cream is not a workaround for skin that should avoid retinoids. Do not use retinoids during pregnancy. If you have very dry skin, skin allergies or substantial redness or inflammation, discuss alternatives with a dermatologist before starting. Retinoids can worsen eczema. In darker skin, irritation can trigger dark marks, so introduce the product slowly and use moisturizer.126

Dryness, redness, peeling, itching and burning are possible with retinol. Do not introduce it beyond the test area if that area becomes very red or itchy. For acne, see a doctor if self treatment is not helping, spots are deep or painful, scarring develops, or your skin becomes hot, swollen and red. Changing texture is not a substitute for treating more severe acne.47