Rosehip oil benefits and side effects

What is rosehip oil?

Rose hips are the fruits beneath rose petals. Rosehip oil and rosehip seed oil are names for oil harvested from rose seeds, including Rosa canina. Pure oil and products containing it have different formulas.12

What benefits can you expect?

• Moisture: Rosehip oil contains essential fatty acids that help keep skin hydrated. Its texture is fairly lightweight and absorbs easily.
• Fine lines: Its vitamin A content can help stimulate collagen and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
• Inflammation and pigmentation: Its fatty acids and antioxidant nutrients can help calm inflammation and improve uneven pigmentation.
• Acne and marks: Rosehip oil can help inflammatory acne and acne scars. Some formulas are noncomedogenic, meaning formulated not to clog pores.

Moisturizing is a useful reason to try rosehip oil, even if it sounds less impressive than giving a bottle an entire job description.1

Does rosehip oil heal damaged skin?

Rosehip oil is not a reliable treatment for injuries from repeated finger pricks. In a 12 day trial involving 68 children with type 1 diabetes, a rosehip seed oil extract did not improve the hand lesions caused by blood glucose monitoring. No adverse effects were recorded during that trial. Those results concern that extract and that specific use, not every facial oil or skin concern.3

How to start using rosehip oil

Use this general skincare testing sequence before putting rosehip oil on your whole face.

1. 1Choose a spot about the size of a quarter on the underside of your arm or in the bend of your elbow, where the product will not be rubbed or washed away.
2. 2Apply your usual amount to that spot twice daily for seven to 10 days. Leave a product intended to stay on the skin in place for its normal duration.
3. 3Watch for redness, itching or swelling throughout the test. If a reaction develops, wash the product off gently and do not use it again.
4. 4If no reaction develops, begin using the product as directed on its label.

Pure rosehip oil can be applied directly to skin, and general use can be once or twice daily. Follow the particular product's directions rather than assuming every rosehip formula has the same dose.1

For example, Guangzhou Yilong Cosmetics' rosehip oil label directs users to clean and thoroughly dry the skin, then apply gently. That product contains 95% Rosa canina fruit oil and 5% Rosa canina flower oil. Its directions are for that formula, not a universal layering order.2

Who should be careful, and what should you buy?

Oily skin can find the extra moisture excessive. Choose a dark amber bottle to protect the oil from UV light. Raw or unrefined oil can leave noticeable color on skin and clothes, which gives the laundry an unnecessary supporting role in your skincare routine.1

If fragrance has caused a reaction before, choose a product labeled "fragrance free" and avoid your known trigger. "Unscented" can mean fragrance has been covered up rather than removed. Botanical ingredients can also include fragrance related ingredients, so a plant based formula is not automatically suitable for fragrance sensitive skin.45

What side effects should make you stop?

Contact dermatitis is skin inflammation triggered by something touching the skin. Irritation can cause dryness, burning, stinging or blisters, either immediately or within 48 hours. An allergic reaction can also be delayed and cause itching, cracking or fluid filled skin. On lighter skin, affected areas can look red; on darker skin, they can look dark brown, purple or grey.67

Be especially careful around the eyes, where thin, delicate skin is more prone to contact dermatitis. The Guangzhou Yilong product label says to keep the oil out of the eyes, rinse with water if it gets in, and avoid damaged or broken skin. It also directs users to stop and ask a doctor if a rash occurs.25

For a skin reaction, gently wash the product off and stop using it. A cool compress or petroleum jelly can help relieve symptoms. If the cause is unclear, a dermatologist can arrange medical patch testing to identify the ingredient responsible; this is different from trying a product on your arm at home.4

When should you get medical help?

See a doctor for persistent, recurring or severe symptoms. Seek immediate medical advice for a severe reaction or possible infection, including rapidly worsening symptoms, discharge, increasing pain, feeling unwell, or feeling hot, cold or shivery.67