Self tanning lotion for women: how to choose and use it

What does self tanning lotion do?

Most self tanners contain dihydroxyacetone, usually shortened to DHA. DHA colors dead cells in the outer layer of skin, rather than creating a tan through UV exposure. The color fades as those cells naturally shed, usually over several days to a week. Self tanning lotion gives skin a tan without sun exposure.3

Which type should you choose?

Choose a lotion or cream if you want sunless color without handling a spray. DHA is suitable for external skin coloring, but you should not inhale or swallow it. A spray introduces exposure routes that rubbing on a lotion avoids. Neither a tan from the sun nor a tanning bed is a safer substitute: both expose skin to damaging UV rays.12

Read the directions before choosing a product, including where to apply it and how to use it. There is no single application schedule for every self tanner. The bottle's directions matter more than the word "glow", which has never been a unit of measurement.4

How quickly does the color develop?

DHA generally starts developing color about two to four hours after application, and development can continue for 24 to 72 hours. These are general DHA timings, not a rinse schedule for every lotion. Follow your product's directions rather than using the first visible color as a signal to apply more. More DHA produces a darker result, so immediate extra layers are not a reliable way to judge the finished shade.5

For repeat applications, use the frequency on the label. Plan each application around a period when you can let your skin dry, wear loose clothing and avoid sweating. The practical issue is what you will be doing afterwards, rather than whether the clock says morning or evening.46

How do you use self tanning lotion?

An even application comes from working in sections, not treating the whole body as one large painting project.6

1. 1Exfoliate with a washcloth before applying the lotion. Give extra attention to thicker skin on elbows, knees and ankles.
2. 2Dry your skin thoroughly so the tanner goes on evenly.
3. 3Apply one section at a time, such as arms, legs and then torso. Massage the lotion in using circular movements.
4. 4Wash your hands with soap and water after each section to prevent orange palms.
5. 5Blend lightly from wrists onto hands and from ankles onto feet, rather than leaving a sharp boundary.
6. 6Dilute the tanner over knees, elbows and ankles, which absorb more product. Lightly rub these areas with a damp towel or put a thin layer of lotion over the tanner.
7. 7Wait at least 10 minutes before dressing. For the next three hours, wear loose clothing and try to avoid sweating.

For facial application, follow the label and keep DHA away from your lips, nose, eyes and the surrounding eye area. The eye restriction includes the area from the top of the cheek to above the eyebrow. External use does not mean every part of the face is an appropriate application site.4

Do you still need sunscreen?

Use sunscreen every day, even if the self tanner has an SPF. Choose SPF 30 or higher with water resistance and broad spectrum protection, meaning protection against both UVA and UVB rays. Apply sunscreen to exposed skin before going outdoors and reapply at least every two hours. Clothing, a hat and sunglasses provide additional protection. A darker cosmetic tan does not make sun exposure safer.26

Is self tanning lotion harmful?

DHA is considered safe for use on the outside of the body, and sunless tanners have no known skin cancer risk. That makes topical self tanning creams a safer alternative to tanning pills, sunbathing and tanning beds. The distinction is external application: avoid breathing in DHA, swallowing it or getting it into your eyes, nose or mouth. Long term questions about other DHA exposure routes remain unsettled.245

Sensitive skin and allergies also matter when choosing a formula. Fragrance in spray tanning products can irritate sensitive skin or trigger problems for people with certain allergies. A spray formula's tolerability does not tell you how a particular lotion will suit your skin; check the lotion's own ingredients rather than treating all self tanners as interchangeable.5

Can you use self tanning lotion during pregnancy?

Self tanners have not been well studied during pregnancy, although there is no proof that they harm an unborn baby. Speak with your doctor before applying one. Avoid airbrush and spray tans during pregnancy because of possible inhalation and exposure around the lips and eyes. A rub on lotion or cream avoids the spray inhalation route, but that does not resolve the limited pregnancy research.35

If you prefer temporary cosmetic color during pregnancy, bronzer is another option for the face, neck, shoulders and chest. Unlike a developing self tan, bronzer gives the appearance of a tan until you wash it off.3

Does self tanning lotion expire?

Self tanning lotion has a limited shelf life, but there is no universal expiry period for cosmetic lotions. How long a cosmetic stays safe and performs as expected depends on the formula, storage and use. In the United States, cosmetics do not have to carry an expiration date, so an undated bottle is not an indefinitely usable bottle. Products that also contain sunscreen are regulated differently and require expiration dates.7

Keep the container and any applicators clean, and avoid storing the lotion in heat, such as a hot car. Dipping fingers into cosmetics introduces bacteria and fungi. Preservatives can break down over time, while heat, sunlight and air can change a product's color, texture or smell. Water and oil mixtures can also separate. For a specific bottle's usable life, check its label or ask the manufacturer rather than borrowing an expiry period from another lotion.7

Can men use self tanning lotion?

Yes. The general principle applies to men too: DHA colors dead surface skin cells. Choose by the product's application directions rather than whether the packaging is aimed at women. The same preparation, blending and sun protection steps apply.46