Skin care for women over 40

What changes after 40?

Skin gradually becomes thinner and loses some of the fat that gives it a plump appearance. Changes in its supporting tissue reduce strength and elasticity. Sun exposure is the biggest environmental contributor to these changes, although genetics and other factors also matter. Your age alone does not tell you whether your skin needs an acne treatment, a richer moisturizer or help with pigmentation.45

Perimenopause, the transition before menopause, can bring dry and itchy skin. Symptoms differ substantially between women, and skin changes alone do not identify menopause. Changes to your periods are usually among the first signs. Menopause means you have not had a period for 12 months; turning 40 is not the definition.6

What should your daily routine look like?

1. 1Cleanse gently morning and evening, and after sweating. Choose a hydrating cleanser for dry skin rather than a strongly drying or heavily perfumed soap.
2. 2Apply moisturizer daily, including after bathing. Reapply when your skin feels dry.
3. 3In the morning, apply broad spectrum, water resistant SPF 30 or higher after your other skincare and before makeup. Put it on 15 minutes before going outdoors and cover all skin that clothing leaves exposed.
4. 4Before bed, remove makeup and cleanse. If you use a retinoid, apply it using the evening instructions below.

Sun protection is a lifelong habit, not a summer treatment. Use sunscreen outdoors even in winter, and add protective clothing, a hat and sunglasses. Seek shade and avoid tanning beds and sunlamps. Sunscreen cannot undo every age related change, but preventing further sun damage remains useful after wrinkles or spots have appeared.245

Match your products to your current skin needs, rather than giving the bathroom cabinet a birthday makeover. Oiliness, dryness and your main concern are more useful buying criteria than an age category on the box.3

Which ingredients are worth considering?

Retinoids are vitamin A based treatments used for mild fine lines, wrinkles, acne, dark spots and uneven texture. Retinol is one type. Apply a retinoid before bed, waiting 20 to 30 minutes after washing. If it is too drying, apply moisturizer immediately after cleansing, then wait 20 to 30 minutes before the retinoid. Prescription retinoids are also used for acne; they are not interchangeable with every cosmetic retinol product.3

Vitamin C serum or cream can reduce signs of skin aging and dark spots. Apply it after morning cleansing and before sunscreen. Choose a formula for your skin type and concern rather than adding it automatically.3

A claim on the packaging is not a reason to expect every product to deliver the same result.5

How should you adjust for menopause?

• For dryness, use a mild cleanser instead of soap. Moisturizers containing glycerin or hyaluronic acid can be especially helpful.
• For easily irritated skin, choose a fragrance free moisturizer. Persistent rashes or worsening eczema or rosacea need a dermatologist's assessment.
• For acne, a salicylic acid cleanser helps unclog pores. Avoid treatments that dry your skin, because dryness can worsen acne. Seek treatment if breakouts remain uncontrolled.
• For wrinkles and loss of firmness, retinol or peptides can increase collagen, the protein that supports skin. Sun protection helps reduce visible wrinkles and prevent new ones.
• For persistent dryness, seek advice before trying exfoliation or microdermabrasion. Thinner menopausal skin can be harmed by these treatments at home.

What results should you expect?

Use a tolerable routine consistently. Allow at least 30 days to judge whether a skincare product is working; that is not a deadline for every wrinkle or dark spot to change. Stop a product that irritates your skin rather than continuing just to reach that point.3

Moisturizing helps keep skin comfortable, but it does not replace the supporting tissue and fat lost with aging. Aging skin also repairs itself more slowly, so rubbing and pulling deserve more care as skin becomes fragile. Avoid harsh scrubbing and strongly drying cleansers.4

When should you see a doctor?

Have dark spots examined before treating them as age spots: skin cancer can resemble a dark spot, and fading it can delay diagnosis. Arrange a skin cancer screening and ask how often to examine your own skin. Also seek help for persistent dryness, uncontrolled acne, a lasting rash or an infection.1

Check your skin regularly for changes and keep up regular dermatologist visits. Daily moisturizing and avoiding smoking remain useful parts of caring for aging skin. If dry or itchy skin comes alongside other possible perimenopause symptoms and you want treatment options, contact your GP.26