Skincare at 40: what to use and how

What changes in your skin at 40?

Skin becomes drier with age, and fine lines become more noticeable. Declining collagen and elastin, the proteins that give skin structure and stretch, contribute to wrinkles and reduced firmness. Sun exposure adds cumulative damage, changing skin texture and accelerating aging. Hormonal changes associated with menopause can also make skin thinner and drier.13

What should you use in the morning?

1. 1Wash with a mild cleanser and warm water. Avoid scrubbing or rough cloths.
2. 2Apply vitamin C serum if you want to include a treatment for brightness and fine lines.
3. 3Apply facial moisturizer to help retain water in your skin.
4. 4Finish with broad spectrum, water resistant sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher. Cover all exposed skin, including your neck and hands.

Morning and evening cleansing works for many people, but dry or sensitive skin can need less washing. A gentle evening cleanse can be sufficient for those skin types. Harsh cleansing and scrubbing can irritate skin rather than improve it.4

What should you use at night?

1. 1Cleanse gently to wash away the day's dirt and grime.
2. 2Apply retinol if you are including it in your routine. Follow the product's directions.
3. 3Apply moisturizer. If retinol is irritating, a thin layer of moisturizer before retinol can help reduce irritation.

Which ingredients are worth considering?

Prescription retinoids, medicines in the vitamin A family, are not necessary for most people. They can work faster in some people, but regular use of nonprescription retinol can show improvements in about three months. Avoid duplicating retinol across a serum and moisturizer; choose products that complement each other.2

Sunscreen does more than prevent sunburn

Sun protection is the foundation of skincare for aging skin. Broad spectrum sunscreen protects against UVA and UVB rays. Apply it 15 to 30 minutes before going outside, then reapply at least every two hours outdoors and more often when swimming, sweating or toweling your skin. Clouds do not block all UV rays.13

Use shade and clothing alongside sunscreen. Seek shade especially between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., and whenever your shadow is shorter than you are. A wide brimmed hat, long sleeves and sunglasses add protection. Avoid tanning beds and sun lamps, which expose skin to UV rays that accelerate aging. Vitamin C can complement sunscreen, but it does not replace that final morning step.15

What if your skin is dry or sensitive?

Choose fragrance free products because added fragrance can cause irritation or allergic reactions. Introduce one new product at a time so you can tell whether your skin tolerates it. For sensitive skin, test a small amount before applying a new product across your face. Establish comfortable cleansing and moisturizing before adding more treatments.4

Use moisturizer every day, including body moisturizer and lip balm where needed. Moisturizer traps water in the skin and can make fine lines look less noticeable. For dry skin, use warm rather than hot water when bathing and avoid excessive soap or perfume. See a doctor if your skin is very dry and itchy.13

How long does skincare take to work?

Expect months rather than days for most treatments aimed at signs of aging. Many products take about three to four months to show their greatest benefit. Take a photo each month to track changes instead of relying on memory. Daily sunscreen also has a longer term role: people using broad spectrum facial sunscreen every day for a year have shown improvements in how young their skin looks compared with people who did not use it.5

How should you choose products?

Look for a product that addresses a specific concern rather than buying on the strength of an antiaging claim. Many cosmetics do not require human testing or FDA approval before sale. An antiaging claim on a cosmetic is not proof of human testing, even when the packaging looks ready to deliver a keynote. A dermatologist can help you choose suitable products if your needs go beyond a basic routine.3

Which changes need a doctor?

Check your skin monthly for new growths, sores that do not heal and bleeding moles. See a doctor promptly for a mole that becomes uneven, develops an irregular border, changes color or changes in size, shape or symptoms. Skin cancer is rarely painful, so do not wait for discomfort before having an unusual change checked.3