Why does skin change during the teenage years?

Hormonal changes during puberty can increase oil production. Excess oil and dead skin cells can block hair follicles, the openings where hairs grow. Bacteria can grow inside those blocked follicles and cause inflammation and pus. Acne can affect the face, chest and back, and ranges from a few spots to deep, painful lumps. Scrubbing does not fix the blockage and can irritate skin, making acne worse.23

What should the daily routine look like?

  1. 1Wash gently. For acne, cleanse in the morning and before bed, and wash after sweating. Use a gentle cleanser and your fingertips instead of a washcloth, sponge or scrubbing tool.
  2. 2Apply moisturizer after washing. Choose a lightweight, fragrance free formula. Moisturizing helps relieve dryness, including dryness caused by acne treatments.
  3. 3Wear sunscreen during the day. Choose broad spectrum, water resistant SPF 30 or higher and apply it to exposed skin when outdoors. For acne prone skin, look for a label saying noncomedogenic or won't clog pores.
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Dry or sensitive skin without acne may only need cleansing once daily, in the evening. Avoid treating every face as oily just because puberty has arrived.1

What should you look for when buying products?

Start with gentle products rather than a large matching set. Fragrance free options are preferable for sensitive skin because added scents can cause irritation or allergic reactions. Introduce one new product at a time; sensitive skin can benefit from trying a small amount before applying it across the face. An expensive bottle is not automatically better for your skin, even if its packaging looks ready for an awards ceremony.1

Which acne treatments are useful?

Blackheads, whiteheads and other mild blemishes can be a starting point for pharmacy treatments. A pharmacist can help choose salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide. Deep, painful spots need a doctor rather than repeated experiments with shop bought products.23

TreatmentWhat it doesHow to approach it
Benzoyl peroxideTargets bacteria and removes excess oil from pores.Some acne washes contain 5% to 10% for oily skin. Sensitive skin needs a lower percentage.
Salicylic acidHelps remove dead skin and clear blocked pores.Available in acne washes and spot treatments; get help choosing it if skin is sensitive.
AdapaleneA retinoid, a medicine related to vitamin A, that helps clear blocked pores.Use across the face rather than only on individual spots, with professional advice on suitability.
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For adapalene, the application described for teens is a pea sized amount across the entire face after cleansing. A dermatologist can decide whether a retinoid is appropriate. If you already have prescribed acne treatment, follow its directions rather than substituting a cosmetic retinol product.12

What helps after sport and between washes?

  • Shower after sweaty practices, games and workouts. For body acne, wear loose, breathable clothing, especially during exercise.
  • Keep oily hair away from your forehead and shampoo more often if hair oil is contributing to forehead breakouts.
  • Avoid picking, popping or squeezing spots. Picking delays clearing and increases the risk of scars and dark marks.
  • Avoid tanning outdoors or in tanning beds. Tanning can worsen acne, and some acne medicines increase sensitivity to ultraviolet light. Use shade and protective clothing alongside sunscreen.
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How long does acne treatment take?

Expect several weeks to a few months before seeing a difference. Regular use for about three months gives treatments an opportunity to work. Switching treatments frequently can irritate skin and cause more breakouts. An overnight spot treatment does not mean a spot will disappear by morning.24

What can you leave out?

Skip cosmetic retinol, vitamin C and exfoliating acids marketed for wrinkles or sun damage. Acne medicines are a separate decision. Avoid irritating toners, astringents and exfoliants during acne treatment, and choose gentle, alcohol free skincare. Social media can make every product look essential, which is a generous definition of essential.14

When should you stop experimenting and get help?

Do not keep adding products if skin is reacting; a dermatologist can help assess sensitive skin and product reactions. See a doctor for lots of spots, deep or painful lumps, scarring, or breakouts that leave dark marks. Hot, swollen, red skin can signal infection; redness can be harder to see on brown and black skin. Get help if acne affects mental health, or if treatment has not helped after about three months. Prescription options include creams, gels and oral medicines chosen for the severity of acne.123

Where this answer comes from

  1. 1A dermatologist’s guide to skincare from growing up to glowing upaad.org
  2. 2Acne Treatment for Teens: OTC and Prescriptionhealth.clevelandclinic.org
  3. 3Acnenhs.uk
  4. 4Acne: Tips for managingaad.org