Skincare regimen for your 30s

What is the best skincare regimen for your 30s?

The best regimen is one you use consistently and adjust to your skin's needs, rather than one with the most steps. Toners, serums and eye creams are optional, so the bathroom shelf does not need a promotion just because you turned 30. Establish the cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen first, then introduce one new product at a time. Start new additions a few times a week and increase gradually, so you can identify the product responsible if a reaction develops.1

Your morning routine

1. 1Wash with a mild cleanser suited to your skin type. A hydrating cleanser suits dry skin; a mild cleanser that removes oil suits acne prone skin. Gently pat dry rather than scrubbing.
2. 2Apply vitamin C if dark spots or signs of aging are your main concern. Use it after cleansing and before sunscreen.
3. 3Apply moisturizer. Choose a formula that meets your skin's needs without unnecessarily repeating ingredients already in your treatment.
4. 4Apply broad spectrum, water resistant sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher after your other skincare products. Apply it 15 minutes before going outdoors, covering your face and other skin that clothing leaves exposed.
5. 5Apply makeup after sunscreen.

Makeup comes after skincare and sunscreen, which gives foundation a place in the queue rather than a second career. Makeup with SPF needs SPF 30 or higher and reapplication every two hours to deliver those SPF benefits; do not treat the number on the foundation bottle as your entire sun protection routine.24

Your evening routine

1. 1Remove makeup and wash with a gentle cleanser before bed. Wash after sweating as well.
2. 2Apply a treatment or prescribed skin medication after cleansing, following its directions. For a bedtime retinoid, wait 20 to 30 minutes after washing before applying.
3. 3Finish with moisturizer. If a retinoid is too drying, apply moisturizer immediately after washing, then apply the retinoid 20 to 30 minutes later.

The usual order is cleanser, treatment, moisturizer or sunscreen, then makeup. Retinoid buffering with moisturizer is a specific adjustment for dryness. When applying cream around the eyes, use your ring finger to avoid pulling too hard on the delicate skin. Adding several products marketed for aging can irritate skin and make signs of aging more noticeable.4

Is vitamin C worth adding?

Vitamin C is an antioxidant: it helps counter free radicals, which damage skin and contribute to wrinkles, dark spots and roughness. It also supports production of collagen, the protein that gives skin structure and strength. A vitamin C serum can help brighten skin and soften the appearance of fine lines. Choose an opaque container because light can inactivate vitamin C; avoid clear bottles and jars with wide openings. Lower cost options can be as effective as expensive ones.3

How do you start retinol?

Retinol is a form of vitamin A within the retinoid family. It increases skin cell turnover, helps unclog pores and increases collagen production to reduce the appearance of fine lines. Retinol is available without a prescription; other retinoids are available as prescription treatments. Follow the product label or your prescriber's instructions rather than assuming every formula has the same strength or schedule.25

1. 1Test a little retinol on a small area first. Wait a couple of days and check for significant redness or itching before adding it to your bedtime routine.
2. 2Apply a thin layer to your face, using about a pea sized amount. Keep it out of your eyes, mouth and nose.
3. 3Start every other night for the first couple of weeks, or once every few days if needed, rather than beginning with daily application.
4. 4Finish with a moisturizer that will not clog pores, and maintain sun protection while using retinol.

Make sunscreen a daily step

Sun protection matters year round, not just during summer. Broad spectrum sunscreen protects against UVA and UVB; SPF describes UVB protection, not the full picture. On UK labels, look for SPF 30 or higher and at least four stars for UVA protection, or the UVA circle marking. Cover exposed neck, ears and backs of hands as well as your face. Reapply every two hours outdoors and straight after swimming, sweating or towel drying, even with water resistant sunscreen. Applying sunscreen too thinly reduces protection.6

Use shade, protective clothing, sunglasses and a hat alongside sunscreen. Check the expiry date and the open jar symbol showing how long the product lasts after opening. A tinted sunscreen can add visible light protection. Consider SPF 50 if you are particularly sun sensitive or have a history or high risk of skin cancer.16

Adjust the routine to your skin

In cold, dry weather, a creamy cleanser and thicker moisturizer containing glycerin and ceramides can help protect the skin barrier, the outer layer that retains moisture. In warmer weather, a gel cleanser and lighter moisturizer can suit increased oil and sweat. Sensitive skin needs gradual introduction of vitamin C and retinoids, with dermatologist guidance. A moisturizer containing sunscreen can reduce the number of morning products.1

What results should you expect?

Moisturizer can temporarily add fullness and make fine lines less noticeable. Regular retinol use takes about three months to show improvement, rather than producing an overnight change. Prescription retinoids can work faster for some people, but most people do not need prescription strength solely for signs of aging. An effective routine does not need a large budget or a lengthy daily ritual, despite the skincare aisle's enthusiasm for both.3

When should you stop or get advice?

Retinol can cause dryness, redness, itching, burning and peeling, and sensitive or allergy prone skin needs particular care. Stop a product that irritates your skin rather than adding more treatments. Avoid rough scrubbing and excessive exfoliation, which can damage the skin barrier. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, speak with your healthcare provider before using retinol. See a dermatologist for a skin condition that affects your quality of life or for concerns about dark spots.25