Is The Ordinary Lactic Acid 5% good for dry skin?

What can it do for dry skin?

Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid, or AHA: an exfoliant that removes dead cells from the skin's surface. Those cells can contribute to a rough feel. Removing them helps skin feel smoother, while surface exfoliation targets dullness and uneven texture. The Ordinary positions its 5% serum for smoother texture and a brighter appearance, not for giving exfoliation a full time job.34

Lactic acid is also part of the skin's natural moisturizing factors, substances that help maintain hydration and a healthy skin barrier. That makes lactic acid a useful ingredient to consider for dry skin. Compared with glycolic acid, lactic acid has a larger molecular size and offers gentler exfoliation. These are ingredient properties, rather than a reason to expect every dry face to tolerate the serum.1

Should you choose 5% or 10%?

The Ordinary offers both Lactic Acid 5% + HA and Lactic Acid 10% + HA for smoothing texture and brightening. If you are choosing between them for dry skin, 5% is the more cautious starting choice because it contains a lower concentration of acid. Higher AHA concentrations can cause more irritation. Percentage is not the whole story, though: the amount of exfoliation also depends on the product's acidity and other ingredients. Do not move to 10% simply because your skin is dry; dryness is not a reason to increase exfoliation.156

How should you use it?

Use these general precautions alongside the directions on your bottle.

1. 1Patch test on your inner arm for a few days before applying the serum to your face, especially if your skin is easily irritated.
2. 2Follow the bottle's application amount, frequency and time of day. Do not apply extra or use it more often to speed up smoothing.
3. 3Apply moisturizer after the exfoliant. Chemical exfoliation can dry skin even when you follow the directions.
4. 4Use sunscreen, wear protective clothing and limit sun exposure while using an AHA and for a week after stopping.

What should you pair it with?

Keep a moisturizing face cream in the routine to help retain moisture. If your skin is sensitive as well as dry, choose a cream with little or no fragrance, since fragrance can cause irritation or allergic reactions. An exfoliating serum and a moisturizer have different jobs, even if the serum's name looks busy enough to do both.7

Be cautious about combining an AHA with other skin treatments: combinations can increase irritation. If you already use a prescription skin treatment, ask the prescriber about adding an exfoliating acid rather than assuming that a lower percentage makes the combination suitable.5

What should you expect, and when should you stop?

Look for smoother surface texture and less dullness with regular use, rather than treating visible peeling as the goal. There is no fixed timetable to use here: exfoliation depends on the acid, its concentration, acidity and the rest of the formula. Applying more is not a shortcut and can leave skin raw or irritated.126

If your skin becomes too dry or irritated, stop the exfoliant for a few days. Burning, rash, swelling and blistering are reported adverse reactions to AHA products, not results to pursue.26