The Ordinary Retinol 0.2% vs 0.5% in Squalane: which should you choose?

What actually changes between the bottles?

Neither is an oil free lotion: both are waterless serums containing squalane and jojoba oil. Squalane supports surface hydration and helps with dryness associated with retinol. Both target the same cosmetic concerns, so the two bottles are applying for the same job.12

The listed prices put both in the same budget bracket, rather than giving the stronger bottle a luxury promotion. These are German and Italian listings, not a price comparison within one country. Check your local price and the ingredients on your packaging, because formulas can change by purchase date and region.12

Who should choose each strength?

For a first retinol, choose 0.2% rather than starting at 0.5%. The Ordinary advises progressing from 0.2% to 0.5% gradually. Do not move up while the lower strength is causing irritation. Sensitive, allergy prone or already very dry skin needs more caution than simply choosing the smaller percentage. Significant redness or inflammation is a reason to ask a dermatologist about alternatives rather than trying a stronger retinol. On darker skin, irritation can trigger dark marks, making a slow start and moisturizer particularly useful.23

How do you use either one?

1. 1Patch test first. Apply a small amount to clean skin on your upper forearm, keep the area dry and rinse after 24 hours. Do not use the serum if the test causes redness, burning, itching, blistering or irritation.
2. 2At bedtime, wash with a gentle cleanser and pat your skin dry. Do not scrub.
3. 3Apply a few drops to your face, following The Ordinary's directions. Keep retinol out of your eyes, nose and mouth, and use only on intact skin.
4. 4Finish with moisturizer. As general retinol guidance, start every other night, or once every few days if needed, and increase gradually as tolerated.
5. 5Use sunscreen during the day, seek shade and cover exposed skin. Refrigerate the bottle after opening and use it within three months.

Do not use either serum with another retinoid, including prescription tretinoin or adapalene. The Ordinary also lists direct acids, direct vitamin C, copper peptides and its Multi Active Delivery Essence as incompatible combinations. Avoid both serums during pregnancy or breastfeeding.23

How long do results take, and when should you stop?

For retinol generally, visible changes take several weeks, while changes in wrinkles usually take several months. A higher percentage is not a reason to expect an immediate result. Early use can cause dryness, redness and peeling, particularly around the eyes and mouth. If irritation occurs, The Ordinary directs you to rinse off the serum, stop using it and consult a doctor.14

What if you are choosing for acne?

Neither serum is an acne treatment. For acne, favor products that do not clog pores and avoid oil based preparations rather than choosing between these strengths. See a GP if spots are deep, painful, causing scars or not improving with treatment.1256