Types of face essence

What is a face essence?

An essence can be a water based lotion used after cleansing and before moisturizing. Toner, tonic and essence can describe overlapping products, because apparently one name for a watery skincare step was not enough.1

Which type should you choose?

Exfoliating essences are different from a purely hydrating step: they remove dead cells from the skin's surface. Alpha hydroxy acids, including glycolic and lactic acid, loosen the substances holding surface cells together. Regular use can improve uneven colour and texture. An acid formula is therefore a treatment choice, not just another layer of water.23

Acid products come in different concentrations and bases, including preparations for dry, normal and oily skin. Stronger exfoliation is not automatically the right choice. Dry, sensitive or acne prone skin can find mechanical exfoliation too irritating and may prefer a mild chemical exfoliator. Avoid aggressive exfoliation if you have darker skin or develop dark spots after skin injuries, because it can increase pigmentation.23

What does essence do for skin?

A hydrating toner style essence increases water in the outer skin layer, which can improve absorption of products applied afterward. Acid formulas can make pores look smaller by unclogging them, but pore size is largely genetic.1

Essence is optional, not a replacement for moisturizer or sunscreen. Moisturizer helps keep water from evaporating from your skin. A basic morning routine is cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen; an essence does not get promoted to essential just because it has its own bottle.4

How do you use essence?

1. 1Wash your face with a gentle cleanser and gently pat dry.
2. 2Apply prescribed skin medication or treatment directly after cleansing. Do not move it behind an optional essence.
3. 3Apply a water based essence before heavier products. For a toner style formula, gently swipe or spray it onto your face and leave it on.
4. 4Follow with moisturizer, then sunscreen as the final morning skincare step. Apply makeup afterward if desired.

For nonmedicated skincare, work from thinner textures to thicker ones. A thick cream applied first can reduce how well a thinner product penetrates. Avoid adding several new products together, and test new products before making them part of your routine. Using more products increases the chance of dryness and irritation.4

When should you use essence?

A toner style essence can be used once or twice daily. Start strong acid formulas every other day and adjust to tolerance. Leave on alpha hydroxy acid preparations are best applied at night; protect your skin from the sun.13

For toner style essences, visible changes generally take six weeks to three months and can be subtle. Improvements in dark spots can take about two to three months.1

Who should be careful?

Sensitive skin needs particular care with heavily fragranced formulas. If you have rosacea and use prescription skincare, consider tolerance before adding an essence.1

Retinol, prescription retinoids and benzoyl peroxide can make skin more sensitive or cause peeling. Adding an exfoliating essence can worsen dryness or trigger breakouts. Never exfoliate sunburned skin or skin with open cuts or wounds. More aggressive exfoliation should be used less often, and moisturizer should follow exfoliation.2

Glycolic acid can be used during pregnancy. That ingredient level guidance is not a blanket approval of every essence formula, so the other ingredients still matter.3

Stop using a product if you develop skin irritation or contact dermatitis, an inflammatory skin reaction, and make an appointment with a dermatologist. If you are unsure whether exfoliation suits your skin, a dermatologist can help you decide before you add an acid essence.24