What does essence do for your skin?

An essence can add hydration and help the next product absorb, but its job depends on its formula. Water helps hydrate the outer layer of skin, and some formulas contain hyaluronic acid or glycerin to increase hydration. Used just after cleansing, a water based toner increases the water content of that outer layer and improves product absorption. A hydrating essence can be a useful extra if you want that step; an exfoliating formula does a different job. Acids can unclog pores and smooth skin texture, which can make pores look smaller, but pore size is largely genetic.1

Choose by ingredients and purpose, not the word essence:

  • For hydration, look for hyaluronic acid or glycerin.
  • For oily or acne prone skin, toner formulas with alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids or salicylic acid can help with oil control or clogged pores.
  • For dull skin, look for alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, niacinamide, licorice root or papaya extracts.
  • For mature skin, toner formulas with antioxidants such as vitamin C or ferulic acid, or hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and glycerin, are options.
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Do not expect an immediate change. For an essence that functions as a toner, effects usually take six weeks to three months to appear and can be subtle. If the formula targets acne or dark spots, results can take about two to three months.1

How do you use essence in a skincare routine?

  1. 1Cleanse with a gentle product and pat your face dry.
  2. 2If you use a medicine or other skin treatment on your skin, apply it right after cleansing. Fit an essence around that step only if it suits the treatment directions.
  3. 3Apply the essence after cleansing, or after your treatment when you use one. You can mist it on or gently swipe it over your face with a cotton ball, swab or round. Leave it on.
  4. 4Continue from thinner to thicker textures, then apply moisturizer.
  5. 5In the morning, finish with sunscreen after moisturizer, so moisturizer does not get the last word in the routine.
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A toner used as an essence can be used once or twice a day, depending on how your skin tolerates it. If it contains strong acids or other active ingredients that could irritate, start every other day and increase only as tolerated. Moisturizer remains the next step because it helps lock in moisture; sunscreen is the last step in the morning, not at night.13

Is essence the same as toner?

QuestionEssenceToner
What the name meansA name sometimes used for a toner stepA water based lotion or tonic that may also be called an essence
Where it fitsAfter cleansing and before moisturizer when used as a tonerAfter cleansing and before moisturizer
What it tells you about the formulaThe name alone does not identify the ingredientsFormulas range from hydrating or soothing to exfoliating
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The terms overlap, but the formula matters more than the label. Read the ingredients to see whether the product is mainly hydrating, soothing or exfoliating; a bottle called essence is not a shortcut past the small print.1

Do you need an essence?

No. A basic morning routine can be cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen, so essence is an optional step rather than a requirement. If those products already cover what you want, you can leave essence out. Products do not need to be expensive to be effective, and using several products can add cost and increase the chance of irritation. Since an essence is optional, a routine can accumulate watery layers with the quiet efficiency of office paperwork.234

Who should be careful with an essence?

If your skin is sensitive, avoid heavily fragranced formulas and products with lots of dyes or preservatives. Add only a small number of new products at a time, especially if you have rosacea and use prescription products, and pay attention to how your skin tolerates them. If you develop skin irritation or contact dermatitis, stop using the product and make an appointment with a dermatologist.13

Where this answer comes from

  1. 1What Does Toner Do for Your Face? 5 Benefitshealth.clevelandclinic.org
  2. 2Should I apply my skin care products in a certain order?aad.org
  3. 3The Correct Order for Skin Care Productshealth.clevelandclinic.org
  4. 4Skin care on a budgetaad.org