What is the best way to use retinol?

Which retinol should you start with?

Retinol is one member of the retinoid family, a group of vitamin A based skincare ingredients and medicines. Retinol is sold without a prescription in many products. It can improve uneven tone, pigmentation and texture. Prescription retinoids such as tretinoin are different treatments; follow your prescriber's instructions rather than substituting this beginner routine.13

Choose the lowest strength, least intense formula you can find. There is no universal requirement for cosmetic retinol products to display their percentage, so not every label allows a straightforward strength comparison, which makes the packaging unusually shy about arithmetic. A stronger formula is not the starting goal: building up slowly helps limit irritation.1

How to apply retinol

Read the package directions before starting, rather than asking the product name to do a set of instructions' job, even if the name sounds impressively qualified. The following is a general application sequence, with less ceremony than retinol would get in a launch video.2

1. 1Test a little on a small area first. Wait a couple of days; if the area becomes very red or itchy, do not begin applying retinol across your face.
2. 2At bedtime, wash with a gentle cleanser and pat your skin dry. Do not scrub.
3. 3Spread about a pea sized amount in a thin layer across your face. Keep retinol out of your eyes, mouth and nose, and avoid applying close to your lips.
4. 4Finish with a facial moisturizer labeled noncomedogenic, meaning formulated not to clog pores.
5. 5Start every other night for the first couple of weeks, or once every few days. Increase frequency gradually only as your skin tolerates it and the product directions allow.

What should you do during the day?

Retinoids can make skin more sensitive to sunlight. Apply sunscreen to exposed skin, seek shade, and wear protective clothing, including a wide brimmed hat. If your skin is sensitive, consider sunscreen containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. Moisturizer also helps manage the dryness associated with topical retinoids.13

How long does retinol take to work?

Expect several weeks before visible changes, and several months for wrinkles or dark spots. Acne can initially look worse, with pimples continuing during the first couple of months. For acne medicines such as adapalene or tretinoin, improvement can take 12 weeks or longer. Early worsening of acne and an irritated skin reaction are not the same thing.23

Who should be careful or stop?

Dryness, peeling, redness, itching and burning are possible side effects. Retinoids can worsen eczema, and skin allergies, marked dryness or ongoing redness warrant discussing alternatives with a dermatologist. In darker skin, irritation can trigger dark marks, so starting slowly and moisturizing matter.123

If a product causes a skin reaction, wash it off gently and stop using it. A cool compress or petroleum jelly can help relieve symptoms. See a dermatologist if the reaction is severe and those measures do not help. Seek medical help for acne that is deep, painful, causing scars or not improving with self treatment.45

Do not use retinol during pregnancy. If you are planning pregnancy, avoid topical retinoid medicines and discuss your routine with your clinician. Ask your healthcare provider before using retinol while breastfeeding.126