What does removing dead skin actually do?
Skin naturally sheds its outer cells. That shedding slows with age, allowing dead cells to build up and contribute to dullness, dry patches and an uneven appearance. Exfoliation helps remove that surface buildup. The useful results are a smoother texture, less visible flaking and a brighter appearance. Chemical exfoliants can also help with uneven pigmentation at the surface. Exfoliation is not a general fix for wrinkles: some chemical peels improve the appearance of fine lines, but deeper lines need a different approach.234
What is the difference between a scrub and an acid?
| Method | How it works | What it helps with |
|---|---|---|
| Physical exfoliation | A washcloth, brush, sponge or scrub physically removes surface cells. | Surface dullness and rough texture. |
| Alpha hydroxy acids, or AHAs | Water soluble acids loosen the bonds holding surface cells together. | Rough texture and uneven surface pigmentation. |
| Beta hydroxy acids, or BHAs | Oil soluble acids remove dead cells and help dissolve oil inside pores. | Clogged pores, including blackheads and whiteheads; salicylic acid is a common example. |
Choose by skin type rather than how forceful the product sounds. Dry, sensitive or acne prone skin generally calls for a mild approach, such as a gentle washcloth or mild chemical exfoliant rather than an abrasive scrub. Oily, thicker skin can tolerate stronger methods. Avoid aggressive exfoliation if you have a darker skin tone or develop dark spots after skin injuries, because irritation can increase pigmentation.1
How do you exfoliate safely?
- 1Check your existing routine. Prescription retinoids, retinol and benzoyl peroxide can make skin more sensitive or cause peeling; adding exfoliation can worsen dryness or breakouts.
- 2Start gently. Try a washcloth with light pressure or a low concentration chemical exfoliant before considering stronger products.
- 3Use the correct technique. For a rinse off scrub, use gentle circular motions for about 30 seconds, then rinse with lukewarm water. With a brush or sponge, use short, light strokes. Follow the product's directions for chemical exfoliants, including any washing off or neutralizing instructions.
- 4Apply moisturizer immediately afterward, because exfoliation can dry the skin.
- 5Use SPF 30 or higher sunscreen every day when using facial acids, which increase vulnerability to sun damage.
How often, and when will you see a difference?
For general home exfoliation, avoid making it a daily habit; two or three sessions a week is a ceiling, not a target. More aggressive methods need more time between uses. Glycolic acid is best introduced once or twice a week at night. Chemical exfoliants improve appearance over time with regular use, rather than delivering every benefit in one session. Removing surface cells can freshen the skin's appearance, but 'fresh' and 'brand new' are doing very different jobs.1245
When should you skip exfoliation?
Do not exfoliate sunburned skin or areas with open cuts or wounds. Stop if exfoliation leaves skin red, irritated or chapped instead of increasing pressure or strength. If a chemical peel causes blisters or severe pain, immediately wash off the chemical or use its specified neutralizing agent. Highly concentrated peels belong in a professional setting, not a home routine. See a dermatologist if you are unsure which method suits your skin or whether exfoliation would help.124
Where this answer comes from
- 1How to safely exfoliate at homeaad.org
- 2Have you exfoliated lately?health.harvard.edu
- 35 Ways to Exfoliate Your Skin Without Irritationhealth.clevelandclinic.org
- 4Shedding your skinhealth.harvard.edu
- 5Facial Acids: Everything You Need To Knowhealth.clevelandclinic.org
