What is the purpose of a lip scrub?

What does a lip scrub actually do?

A scrub is a form of mechanical exfoliation, which means using friction to remove dead surface cells. Chemical exfoliation uses ingredients that dissolve those cells instead. A scrub removes surface skin; the word "polish" gives the same job a more ambitious title. Neither method is automatically suitable for dry or sensitive skin, and general exfoliation advice is not a reason to apply a facial exfoliant to your lips.1

Should you scrub off flaky lip skin?

Leave peeling skin to come away on its own. The damaged and dead skin still protects the new cells underneath while they prepare for exposure to dry air and other irritants. Pulling, biting or scrubbing it away removes that protection prematurely. Picking can also cause irritation, dryness and infection. If your lips are already peeling or cracked, protect them with balm or ointment rather than trying to rub them smooth.23

How often should you use a lip scrub?

For dry or chapped lips, skip the scrub rather than choosing a daily or weekly schedule. General skin exfoliation frequency depends on the method and skin type, but lip care calls for protecting the surface, not repeatedly removing it. Never exfoliate skin with open cuts or wounds, or skin that is sunburned. Stop any lip product that burns, stings, tingles or feels uncomfortable; those sensations indicate irritation, not useful progress.124

What should you use instead?

Lip balm forms a coating that helps keep existing moisture from escaping, a less theatrical job than polishing but a more useful one for dry lips. Ointment based products containing petrolatum, glycerin or mineral oil help maintain moisture and heal cracks. Beeswax or petrolatum are also options for soothing chapped lips. Choose a fragrance free product, and avoid camphor, eucalyptus and menthol, which can be drying or irritating.35

Replace scrubbing with this routine:

1. 1Wash your hands before applying lip balm.
2. 2Apply a nonirritating balm several times a day, including in the morning and before bed. For very dry, cracked lips, use a thick ointment such as white petroleum jelly, which seals in water longer than waxes or oils.
3. 3Before going outdoors, apply a nonirritating lip balm with SPF 30 or higher. Reapply every two hours outdoors, including in winter.
4. 4Leave flakes alone between applications. Avoid licking your lips: saliva makes them dry out faster rather than keeping them moisturized.

Cold, wind and dry indoor air can keep the problem going. Cover your lips with a scarf in cold weather and use a humidifier to limit moisture loss in dry air. If one balm is not working, try another: fragrances, dyes or other cosmetic ingredients can cause sensitivity. Do not share lip balms, because sharing can spread germs.36

When should peeling lips be checked?

With protective lip care, chapped lips should noticeably improve within two to three weeks. See a dermatologist if they do not improve. Persistent dryness can have causes other than weather, including an allergic reaction or infection. Continuous peeling can also occur with lip inflammation that needs assessment rather than more exfoliation.47

See a doctor if your lips are hot, painful and swollen, which could indicate infection. Have sores that will not heal checked as well. A pharmacist can help you choose treatment for sore or dry lips and advise whether you need to see a doctor.56