A scrub physically removes dead skin cells from the surface, but exfoliation is not suitable for everyone. Lip scrub is an optional prep step, not an entrance fee for lipstick. The steps below apply general gentle exfoliation guidance to lipstick prep; they are not directions for a particular lip scrub.1

How to prep your lips

  1. 1Wash your hands before applying lip products. Do not pick or bite off flakes.
  2. 2Apply the scrub gently using small circular motions. General skin exfoliation guidance uses about 30 seconds, not prolonged rubbing. Never scrub over open cuts or wounds.
  3. 3Rinse the scrub away thoroughly with lukewarm water, not hot water.
  4. 4Apply a nonirritating lip balm immediately after rinsing, because exfoliation can be drying. Use a lipstick that does not burn, sting or feel uncomfortable.
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Should you scrub before every lipstick application?

No fixed scrub schedule suits everyone: frequency depends on skin sensitivity and how aggressive the exfoliation is. Lipstick application is not a calendar reminder to sand something. More aggressive exfoliation needs less frequent use, and excessive exfoliation can leave skin red and irritated. Dry or sensitive skin can find mechanical scrubs too irritating. Retinol, prescription retinoid creams and benzoyl peroxide can also increase sensitivity or peeling, making extra exfoliation a poor choice.1

What if your lips are already chapped?

Use a nonirritating balm several times a day and before bed rather than trying to remove every flake. For very dry, cracked lips, white petroleum jelly seals in water longer than waxes or oils. Fragrance free products can help reduce exposure to irritating ingredients. While lips are chapped, avoid menthol, camphor, fragrance, salicylic acid and cinnamon, citrus, mint or peppermint flavoring. Stop licking your lips: as saliva evaporates, lips become drier. Picking and biting also irritate lips and interfere with healing.2

When should you stop or get help?

Stop any scrub, balm or lipstick that causes burning, stinging or discomfort. Those sensations indicate irritation, not a product working harder. Chapped lips should noticeably improve within 2 to 3 weeks of gentle care; see a dermatologist if they do not. See a doctor if your lips are hot, painful and swollen, because these can be signs of infection. A pharmacist can help you choose care for sore or dry lips.23

Where this answer comes from

  1. 1How to safely exfoliate at homeaad.org
  2. 27 dermatologists' tips for healing dry, chapped lipsaad.org
  3. 3Sore or dry lipsnhs.uk